Trekking and Local Guides in Indonesian Birdwatching

To trek in most areas in Indonesia it is necessary to be self-sufficient in food and to take a guide. Aour guide will need to eat rice, and lightweight, pre-packaged food is not available, it is usually best to hire a couple of porters to carry provisions and equipment. The normal daily wage is IDR 25,000-50,000 plus food. Few guides have their own trekking equipment and you will need to buy this before setting out. They will be adept at knocking up shelters (pondok) in the forest, so there’s no need to worry about tents for them.

The usual pre-trek shopping list is : a large pot (for rice), a small pot (noodles and tea), plastic cups and plates, spoons, a ladle (for rice), a small kerosene lamp, 1 litre jerrycan with kerosene (minyak tanah) and a piece of plastic sheeting and raffia. This will add up to about $ 40 in any general store and, unfortunately unless you want to cart it around, you have to buy it again at each location. The essential food on the list is rice (plan on 1 kg/4 people/day), instant noodles (one or two packs/person/day), fish (either dried, or tinned sardines), chili sauce (sambal), creamcrackers, coffee, tea, sugar, tinned milk, cigarette lighter and cigarettes (for the guides porters and anyone else you meet). You will quickly tire of rice and noodles for breakfast lunch and dinner, so look for variety to liven up the diet. Good bets are chocolate wafers, crispy crackers, egg-coated peanuts and boiled sweets. Ask the shop for rice sacks to put all this in. the porters will carry these, either slung from poles over their shoulders or in ingenious ruck sacks rigged up from tree bark.

Almost everywhere you will be expected to take a local guide when entering a forest area, whether this is in or outside a national park or reserve. In the reserve the guide will be a local PHPA ranger. They vary greatly in knowledge and enthusiasm, and the best are noted in each sections’s practicalities. In rural areas the local village head (kepala desa) will feel responsible for your safety and will understandably be concerned if you try to wander about alone. Even if you are an old hand in tropical forests, it will be hard for them to believe it. So, even though it’s a hassle, it is wiser to go with local wishes and to take someone for you. You will be expected to pay IDR 25,000-50,000 a day for the services. The trouble with local guides is that concept of recreational birdwatching will be totally new and probably quite incomprehensible to them. Take the time to explain your needs carefully.

Birding Bali: Nusa Penida Island with exotic Seabird

Seabirds in the strait
One the way over from Bali, keep an eye open for seabirds such as Wilson’s Storm Petrel, Wedged-tailed Shearwater and Red-necked Phalarope. The main island, Nusa Penida, is now more or less ringed by road; wheter exploring by push-bike, on foot or by public transport, be prepared for some discomfort. There is seldom any shade, and it is very hot.

On arrival at Toyapakeh or Sampalan, look out for at least two species which are common here but not seen on mainland Bali: Red chested Flowerpecker and Black faced Munia. Along the coast (and on hight ground where there is some dry rice cultivation) you may be surprised to see White-faced Heron, a typically Australian bird at the very northern limit of its range.

Given limited time, two day long excursions are recommended the first to Batumadeg on the southern slopes of Bukit Mundi (Mundi hill), from where you may walk south to the remote Temiling Valley. This spectacular gorge, surrounded by the only jungle on the island, is home to many forest birds, notably imperial pigeons, drongos and flycatchers. The trail leads on to kolam dedari, the angel’s pool-a wonderful spot to cool off. Inspect the nearby Cliffside temple, pura segara, and see White-tailed Tropicbirds nesting in the 200-m chalk heads. Another route home starts with the rockhewn staircase above the pool.

The second excursion is to Tanjung Abah (Abah cape), via the incredible Karangsari cave. From Sampalan take the east coast road to Suwana (from where it is a long, hard, scenic walk) or karang (a short, rugged trail) to Tanjung Abah. White-bellied sea-eagles still nest on the limestone stacks at Abah, and the view here is stunning. There is also a good chance of seeing Osprey and Peregrine Falcon-and if you see any other tourists, they are bound to be birdwatchers!