Birding Bali: Nusa Penida Island with exotic Seabird

Seabirds in the strait
One the way over from Bali, keep an eye open for seabirds such as Wilson’s Storm Petrel, Wedged-tailed Shearwater and Red-necked Phalarope. The main island, Nusa Penida, is now more or less ringed by road; wheter exploring by push-bike, on foot or by public transport, be prepared for some discomfort. There is seldom any shade, and it is very hot.


On arrival at Toyapakeh or Sampalan, look out for at least two species which are common here but not seen on mainland Bali: Red chested Flowerpecker and Black faced Munia. Along the coast (and on hight ground where there is some dry rice cultivation) you may be surprised to see White-faced Heron, a typically Australian bird at the very northern limit of its range.


Given limited time, two day long excursions are recommended the first to Batumadeg on the southern slopes of Bukit Mundi (Mundi hill), from where you may walk south to the remote Temiling Valley. This spectacular gorge, surrounded by the only jungle on the island, is home to many forest birds, notably imperial pigeons, drongos and flycatchers. The trail leads on to kolam dedari, the angel’s pool-a wonderful spot to cool off. Inspect the nearby Cliffside temple, pura segara, and see White-tailed Tropicbirds nesting in the 200-m chalk heads. Another route home starts with the rockhewn staircase above the pool.


The second excursion is to Tanjung Abah (Abah cape), via the incredible Karangsari cave. From Sampalan take the east coast road to Suwana (from where it is a long, hard, scenic walk) or karang (a short, rugged trail) to Tanjung Abah. White-bellied sea-eagles still nest on the limestone stacks at Abah, and the view here is stunning. There is also a good chance of seeing Osprey and Peregrine Falcon-and if you see any other tourists, they are bound to be birdwatchers!