The North Coaast: Exotic Place For Balinese Birdwatching

The north Coast
Leaving bedugul there are two roads tto the north coast to choose from: either due north to Singaraja or along the scenic road that runs along the crater rim skirting lake Buyan and Tamblingan, with unforgettable late afternoon views across to the volcanoes of east Java, and thence down through clove plantations to Seririt.

If you opt for the former, beware that the descent dow from the northern slopes to Bali’s former capital town is precipitous, and may be irksome if you get stuck behind a tourist bus or benzene truck. However, Singaraja boasts some old colonial architecture and you may see Bugis schooners loading on the corner of Jl Erlangga near the seafront. From singaraja it is a hard 3-hr drive via Seririt through avenues of painted tamarind to the Bali Barat National Park. An option is to spend the night at one of the many hotels at Lovina beach, and take the magical, early morning outrigger ride to see dolphins, where there is a possibility of seeing terns and even the odd skua.

source: Birding Indonesia. periplus Publishing. Singapore

Lake Bratan Environs

Once you have exhausted the gardens, the rest of the day can be devoted to exploring the ridge that rings Lake Bratan. Either drive to Hotel Bedugul or walk once more on the short trail from the Ashram. At the brow of the hill leading down to the lakeside and the water-sports centre, turn up the track by the guard post and drive to the end (not far) or, better, walk on the lakeside embankment and mount to the higher level on the obvious ramp. The original trail leads up from what looks like a new car past fields of cabbages, then forks left again at a lone, spiny coral-bean tree. Immediately you are back in babbler land and treeshrew territory. Watch out for the latter, which utter disconcertingly bird-like alarm calls.

The trail goes on and on, initially through scrub dominated by giant pandanus, then into everlasting moss forest, climbing gently to a marvelous look-out after about 3 km. a trail starting soon after the small temple enclave leads all the way to Pelaga and is well worth examining, but beware of leeches. Green and dark-acked imperial pigeons are plentiful here, the latter’s double note hoo-whoo being the commonest sound, and listen out for the ringing cries of both Lesser and Malaysian Cuckoo-shrikes. Yellow-throated Hanging-parrot is not uncommon but, like the barbets, is hard to see in the canopy. Siberian Thrush, a winter visitor, is quite easy to spot on the ground. And watch out for wren-babblers which are certainly here, but not yet positively identified.

There are some other good forest tracks: one leads from the rough road skirting the south side of lake Buyan, which has a barrier after about 3 km. even though it is some times open, it is better to park here and walk. Continue always bearing right and climb over the ridge to Lake Tamblingan: the lovely, primary montane jungle affords good views of most species already mentioned, plus Red Junglefowl and Chestnut-breasted Malkoha. Many Long-tailed Macaques and Barking Deer are also in evidence here. Another track worth exploring is the path that leads from the approach road to Bali Handara Golf Club, near the artificial ponds and adjacent to green 2. from a dry stream gully emerge on to the path adjacent to a large pipeline and look for thrushes and Sunda Bush-warbler skulking in dank thickets nearby. Lunch in the club is thoroughly recommended.

source: birding indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore