Birdwatching in Gunung Mutis (Timor Island)

Gunung Mutis

A 10,000-ha nature reserve covering the beautiful eucalyptus forest around the base of Mt Mutis. The forest on the lower slopes is heavily grazed; the higher slopes (above 1,600 m) are the best for birding. Officially a permit is required to visit, obtainable from the SBKSDA in Kupang.

Key species

Timor Imperial Pigeon, Chestnut-backed, sunda and Island Thrushes, Iris Lorikeet, Yellow-breasted Warbler, Pygmy Wren-babler, Snowy-browed Flycatcher.

Getting there

Take the road from Soe to Kapan (20 km; 30 mins). Take the left-hand branch in Kapan and drive for a further hr (approx 35 km to Fatumenasi). A road is currently being constructed through the reserve to Nenas, 8 km distant. The good forest and birding start above Nenas. There are regular minibuses to Kapan and Fatumenasi from Soe.

Accommodation

It is possible to stay with villagers.

Birdwatching in Soe (Timor Island)

Soe

This small pleasant town is the jumping-off point for trips to Mutis, Oel Bubek and other upland birding sites. There are numerous buses running between Kupang and Soe. Note that the buses to Soe go from the Terminal Bis Oebobo. This is situated near Walikota on Jl El Tari (the road that goes to the airport). The fare is IDR 12,500.

Buat

A scenic area of rolling, grass-covered hills and evergreen forest remnants close to Soe at about 1,000 m above sea level.

Key species

Similar to Camplong, but Spot-breasted Darkeyes, Black-banded Flycatcher and Orange-banded Thrush much more abundant. The only recent (but unconfirmed) locality for Water Ground-dove and an undescribed owl. Yellow-eared Honeyeater and metallic Pigeon abundant at times. Yellow-crested Cockatoo recorded.

Getting there

Everybody in Soe knows Buat, about 5 km to the northwest, where there is a swimming pool. It is easy to charter transport to Buat from any hotel is Soe for around IDR 70,000 (for drop only).

The road passes through white gum-tree savannah and then enters a dense mahogany plantation. At the fork on the far (northern) edge of the plantation, turn right (the left fork goes to the swimming pool) and continue on an unsealed road past new forestry offices for about 1 km until you reach rolling, grass-covered hills and tiny forest remnants. Stop here and walk to the west, where a cliff appears rather suddenly (so take care) with a magnificent view of the forested valley. You can at the southern end of the cliff.