Birding Bali: Shorebirds on the Sand-flats

Shorebirds on the sand-flats
Ask the boatman to drop you halfway down the 11/2-km strand and walk the rest of the way. Or land at the usual disembarkation point, inspect the village and temple, and then take the clearly defined and well-shaded path that dissects the island north to south.

The main birding attraction is the vast expanse of exposed reef and sand-flat at the south end of the island that provides a feeding ground and a roost for migrating terns and waders as well as local herons. As you walk along the beach, observe parties of Sanderlings, pairs of small Malaysian Plovers and the odd Common Sandpiper. Rounding a bend in the beach and a shallow inflet, the extent of the flat becomes apparent, dotted with white egrets and an evenly-spaced line of dark, angular purple herons. Less obvious at first glance are the large numbers of Javan Pond Herons: wheter in breeding or non-breeding plumage, they blend in with their background.

Even more difficult to see are the flocks of plovers and sandpipers, all brownish, which are collectively known as waders. The easiest of this group to spot are the curlews, both Eurasian and far eastern-the former with white rumps like the numerous whi,mblers, obvious by their sheer size. Grey plover are fairly plentiful and are easely distinguished by their black axillaries (“armpits”) in flight. Not so the flocks of golden plover, which are almost impossible to detect against the mud. Calling for equally close scrutiny are the flocks of Mongolian plover, interspersed with the odd greater sandplover, grey-tailed tattler, rufous-necked stint, and sharp-tailed and curlew sandpipers. Redshanks are usually much in evidence, with a few greenshanks and ruddy turnstones. And look out for some of Bali’s more infrequent visitors, such as black-tailed and bar-tailed godwits, terek sandpiper, longbilled dowitcher and great knot.

During the spring and autumn passage, thousands of birds congregate here (though it is a rewarding site at any time). Most numerous af all are the terns-great, pied swathes of them, comprising mainly great crested terns with lesser numbers of gull-billed, common and little. But now it is time to hurry back: the tide is getting low and the boatman becoming impatient….

Birding Bali: Serangan Island

Birding Bali: Serangan Island
Shorebirds an outrigger ride from Sanur
Most people go to turtle island to see the important temple, Pura Sakenan, with its beautifully sculpted coral gates and shrines. During the ten days following the Galungan/kuningan (all saints/all souls) festival, tens of thousands of pilgrims, together with their sacred icons, come here in resplendent procession. But for the birdwatcher, Serangan island is the best site in Bali for shorebirds.

The nicest way to get there is by dug-out outrigger (prau) which may be hired by the hour from Sanur beach. A leisurely half-hour’s sail along the lagoon should yield an assortment of terns-predominantly common, little and great crested- and the odd white-phase reef egret; and from about April to November, squadrons of mixed frigatebirds-great and lesser (but watch out for the odd chrismast frigatebirds, too)-cruise north above the coast, note the extensive belt of protected mangrove, home to a profusion of herons, turtle-doves, kingfishers, bee-eaters, warblers, sunbirds, weavers and munias.