Lore Lindu National Park
The 200,000 ha Lore Lindu National Park in the north of central Sulawesi is one of Asia’s premier birding destinations-it is possible to see 80% of sulawesi’s 96 endemic bird species in a visit of 4-5 days. The park covers the Lindu, Besoa, Bada and Napu valleys-famous for their ancient megaliths-and the mountain ridges in between. Birders tend to head for the higher ground where most of the endemics are found, and the most popular base is Kamarora at the northern edge of the park on the road to the Napu Velley. For those wishing to really get to know the park, an extensive system of trails links the different valleys, although bird densities seem lower in the southern parts of the park.
Key species
Many of Sulawesi’s endemics can be seen at Tangkoko and dumoga Bone; what sets Lore Lindu apart is the easy access to high altitude forests which have a distinct set of endemics. Birds like: Malia, Sulphur-bellied, Yellow-flanked and Maroon-backed Whistlers, White-eyed Myza, Streak-headed Darkeye and Fiery-browed Myna.
Other wildlife
Both species of Sulawesi’s endemic dwarf buffalo, or anoa. Black Macaques and babirusa.
Getting there
Access to Lore Lindu is via Palu, the provincial capital of Central Sulawesi. You can get to the park by bus (from the main bus station-Masomba market terminal), or yoou can organize a 4-wheel drive vehicle and driver from one of the tourist agents in Palu.
Both have their disadvantages. If you go by bus, do not be surprised if the journey takes most of a day, as this road is probably the worst in the southern hemisphere. A 4WD vehicle, on the other hand, can be expensive. A good compromise is to hire transport for a day to take you to the pass at the Anaso turn-off (as high as a vehicle can go) and, after the day’s birding, ask the driver to drop you at Kamarora on the way back. If you choose this option, start early from Palu, or you will get to the top too late for the early birds. Allow at least 4 hrs for this trip.
General Information
If trekking between the areas below, a guide is advised as trails are poorly way-marked. Horses or porters can be hired to carry packs. There are PHPA posts in most villages, the staff of which are welcoming to guests provided that you have park entry permits from the SKSDA office in Palu.
To get to the Napu Valley, take the direct public bus from Palu and stay at the losmen with restaurant; for the Bada valley (Gintu), there is a MAF flight from Poso, then take a jeep to the homestays. Tentena (Poso) is a 2-day walk from Gimpu. To go to Saluki, take the direct bus from Palu, and walk one hour to the Maleo watchtowers. Toro is connected to Palu by a daily direct bus and you can stay at the PHPA post there. The Lindu Valley is accessible via public bus from Palu to Sidaunta; (where you can stay at the homestay at the PHPA post) then continue by horse or foot.
Kamarora is the place to base yourself when visiting the park.
Accommodation/dining
The very basic PHPA bungalows in Kamarora can accommodate up to 15 people; book in advance at PHPA Palu office, Jl Parman 9, no restaurant; bring your own food from Palu and make arrangements with the ranger’s wife to cook it.
General Information
It is essential to get a permit for the park. Obtain it from the BKSDA office at JL Mohammed Yamin (road known also as “jalur dua”) before leaving Palu. Costs IDR 5,000.