Birdwatching in Arfak Mountains

Arfak mountains
The spectacular Arfak mountains, on the eastern corner of the Vogelkop peninsula rise steeply behind the coastal town of Manokwari. Dissected by roaring torrents and sheer, steep-sided valley gorges, trekking into the Arfaks takes stamina, but the effort is rewarded with sightings of some spectacular species only found in the mountains of the Vogelkop Peninsula.

Key species

Magnificent Bird-of-paradise
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Wattled Brush-turkey, Vogelkop Whistler, Vogelkop Bwerbird, Long-tailed Paradigalla, Buff-tailed and Black Sicklebills, Arfak Astrapia, Western Parotia, Magnificent Bird-of-paradise.

Getting there
Manokwari to Mokwam
The Mission Aviation Fellowship (MAF) flies every week or two to Wokwam but more frequently to Minyambou, which is an easy few hour’s walk from Mokwam. They will try to schedule a flight to suit your timing if given several day’s notice, but it is very difficult to contact them other than in person; WWF or a travel agent may be able to help. The cost is very reasonable and depends on the total weight of the party and luggage. It is unlikely to exceed $50 a journey! Their hangar and operations are located on the far side of the airport.

Accommodation
There is virtually no accommodation or food in the Arfaks. However, the porters/guides are adept at building waterproof shelters so it is fesible to manage without a tent. At Mokwam it may be possible to stay in the WWF hut, if pre-arranged with WWF, a valuable source of information-and possibly assistance-in manokwari.

General information
The permit or surat jalan is most conveniently arranged in Jayapura (at Sentani Airport, at the police/immigration office just outside the terminal) or Biak. You may need an endorsement to travel outside Manokwari, so report to the local police on arrival.

Porters are easily hired in Mokwam to carry luggage, food and cooking utensils, all of which you should bring with you. The guides can show you good birds around Mokwam, eg Long-tailed Paradigalla and Western Parotia on Siobri, and the spectacular bowers of Arfak Bowerbird.

Rain occurs most days throughout the year, especially in the afternoon and evening. It is warm/hot every day but can be quite cool at night on or near the ridge. There are a few leeches and mosquitos.

taken from Birding indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Papua

Important notes for travelers in Papua

As a foreigner wishing to move around Papua. It will be necessary to first obtain your Surat keterangan jalan or traveling permit. This traveling permit issued by the Head of Police and lists the places that you are approved to visit. At airports in Papua, the police usually check whether you have the correct traveling permit before they will allow you on the plane.


Even you do manage to get on the plane without the permit, at your destination police will check the arrival of all foreigners and you will need to show the permit to them. Therefore, although it means spending an extra day in Jayapura to get the permit, you are strongly advised to do so, as this will significantly reduce your risk of hassles with authorities when traveling within the province.

 
Papua mens
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Planes to Jayapura arrive in Sentani airport some 45 minutes from Jayapura town. You may need to travel into jayapura itself to visit the police station. From the airport, an airport taxi will set you back IDR 100,000 for an air conditioned minibus which will take you to wherever you want to go. Alternatively you can take a three stage regular taxi ride from the airport and you will share a smaller vehicle with around 20 other people. Using this means, you go from Sentani to Abepura (IDR 2,000), from Abepura to Terminal Entrop (IDR 2,000) and from Terminal Entrop to jayapura centre (IDR 2,000).

Traveling permits can obtained at either the local level police station (POLRES)
When you arrive at the Police station head for the “Bagian Orang Asing” (Foreigner Section) and ask for a surat keterangan jalan. At this stage you will need to state all the places you want to visit, so that the police can make one Travelling Permit for all your intended visits. It best to list all your possible destinations (your flight is cancelled, the plane doesn’t arrive?) you can still visit somewhere else. You will need to take with you half a dozen copies of your passport sized photo of yourself. Once you get your permit, make several copies as you will need to leave a copy of it with the police in each the places you are visiting.

Bear in mind that the “Bagian Orang Asing” normally shuts on Saturday and Sundays, so try to arrive in Jayapura when the following day is a week day, other wise you will be hanging around Jayapura for the weekend. Also try to get the police station in the morning, as things shut up around two in the afternoon.

source Birding Indonseia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore