Searching for mountain specialities
The higher montane forest above 1,600 m is home to Seram’s third endemic parrot species, the blue eared Lory, and such mountain pigeon, spectacled Honeyeater, Crimson Myzomela (between 700-1400 m) and Grey hooded Darkeye. The trails over the Kabipolo and Binaya ridges both reach sufficient altitude for these, but only the trail to the summit of Mt Binaya clims high enough to enter the alpine forest habitat of Seram’s unique, white-headed race of island Thrush.
Kanikeh is the base for the 4-day return trek to the summit of Mt Binaya (2,850 m), where spectacular views await the intrepid. It is essential that you take local guide, warm clothes and a tent. Wae Hulu, a camp with water at 2,050 m, is reached after a 6-7 hr hike, and it is a further day to the camp just below the summit.
From Kanikeh it is an 8-hr, straight walk to Manusela; Selumena is about half way. After climbing out of the Kanikeh valley the trail drops into a wide, undulating valley and mostly follows the river through a mosaic of fruit gardens, sago palms, rattan and bamboo within secondary forest. The birding is excellent, so allow plenty of time or stay at the village of Selumena. After Selumena there are several rivers to be forded, but it is extremely dangerous to attempt this if they are in flood following a rainstorm, and there is no option but to camp and wait until morning.
The trail from Manusela to the south coast provides another opportunity to catch up with the mountain specialities; the fern zone at 2,000 m is reached after a hard, 3-4 hr, uphill climb. There is no water on these limestone ridges and you need to be fit and tough to make it over the top and down toMosso in a day.
Even though there is a certain satisfaction in trekking across the island, it would a pity to miss out on the great birding to be found on the trail back to Wahai via the Kobipolo ridge.
The first night’s camp, along an at times near vertical trail, is at a cave near the Mahala waterfall, up on the ridge at 1,220 m; the next day takes you down through pristine lowland forests into the swamp forest of the Mual plains. The large, mammal-like droppings of southern Cassowary are everywhere. If you are lucky you may disturb a cassowary on the trail, but the birds can smell and hear you long before you approach. The best way to see one is to climb a tree that is dropping fruit, and wait patiently. The flightless cassowaries have been on Seram for thousands of years but, as it is an oceanic island, they must have been introduced by man from their native New Guinea.
During the 7-hour walk to Solealama, and the next day’s walk to the village of Solea along the River Toloarang, try to find a tree in fruit where you can get good views of the canopy-perhaps at the edge of a river-and spend some time watching Superb and Claret-breasted Fruit-doves, which are some of the most wonderfully coloured and patterned pigeons in the world.
Wherever you finally return to civilization, you will certainly be tired, filthy and dreaming of a mandi and good meal. But without doubt you will savour the memory of a remarkable birding adventure.
Source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore