Birdwatching in Lake Tempe (Sulawesi)

Lake Tempe

This shallow complex of lakes, with its intensive fishing industry, is a haven for large numbers of many waterbird species, especially in the man-made structures of floating vegetation (bungka) unique to this area. Halfway between the provincial capital of Ujung Pandang and crowd-pulling Tana Toraja, Tempe lies in the Buginese heartland and at the centre of the Sulawesi silk-weaving industry. While it is a must for the keen birder, everyone will find a half-day trip to the lakes delightful, as seeing birds is nowhere easier.

Key species

Seasonally (usually Nov-Jan) up to 5,000+ Glossy Ibis, 10,000+ Garganey and tens of thousands of reed-warblers, Little Grebe, Little Pied Cormorant, Darter, Purple and Common Moorhens, Comb-crested Jacana, Yellow, Cinnamon and Black Bitterns, Black crowned and Nankeen Night-herons, and Purple Heron, occasionally Milky Stork and Osprey.

Other Wildlife

Soa-soa, or sail-fin Lizard, several species of Monitor Lizard, and Sulawesi’s only aquatic tortoise, Asian Box Turtle.

Getting there

By car the 220-km journey from Ujung Pandang to Sengkang takes about 4 hrs, there are two major routes. The quicker is the coastal road which snakes along a narrow coastal plain to Pare-pare (2.5 hrs), from where you follow the major road to Tana Toraja that runs north of the lakes. After about an hour you reach a major junction; here you turn south to Sengkang (another 30 min).

A slower but more interesting alternative is via Camba. From Ujung Pandang follow the coastal road north to Maros (35 km), then head due east towards the wonderful karst landscape of Bantimurung (waterfalls and butterflies). At Bantimurung follow the road in the direction of Camba-it winds very slowly up the limestone escarpment, through a nature park (Camba) and offers to Soppeng (or Watansoppeng) is not as busy as the coastal road, taking about 2.5 hours; Soppeng-Sengkang is another 30 min.

By bus alternatively, take a public; bus to Pare-pare (2-3 hrs) and from there a bus to Sengkang (another 1.5 haours). About $2,50.

Once in Sengkang it is easy to rent an outbond-powered Buginese longboat plus crew of two. Negotiate a price (usually per hr or half day, depending on what you want) beforehand- a half day will cost about $17-25, depending on your bargaining skills and the mood of your boatman. Best place to rent a boat is along the Walanae river, north of downtown Sengkang.

General information

Best time to visit is Oct-Jan, when water levels are low. The fishing season peaks then, and it coincides with the arrival of migratory waterbirds such as Glossy Ibis and Garganey. As usual, early morning and late afternoon are best to trips on the lakes, not only because of the birds but because the heat of the sun can be a torment while sitting in a boat (none has a roof). Bring lots of water, sun cream and an umbrella (for sun and rain). Depending on what you want to see, you can spend 2-3 hrs on a quick look at the best spots, or 2-3 days if you want to tour all there lakes and see wildlife along the interconnecting streams. Guides are not necessary if water levels are high, but if they are low you will not find the channels and it is generally wise to travel with a boatman. It is also useful that local boatman know the rules regarding fishing nets and how to avoid snagging them. Be aware that the bungka are strictly off limits.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore