Birdwatching in Tangkoko/Dua Saudara Nature Reserve


Tangkoko/Dua saudara Nature Reserve
Three forested volcanoes form the core of this 8,800 ha reserve on the northernmost tip of Sulawesi. An open forest understorey makes for excellent viewing conditions at all levels in the canopy and on the ground, and an abundance of figs and other fruit trees results in high densities of fruit-eating birds and mammals. It is possible to bird coral flats, lowland forests and cloud forest on volcanic summits all in a day, but you will get more out of the trip if you allow at least 2 days.

Key species
Forty-seven Sulawesi endemics including Red-billed and Sulawesi Hanging-parrots, Yellow-breasted and Golden-matled Racquet-tails, Blue-backed Parrot and Yellow-and-green Lorikeet. Yellow-billed Malkoha, Hair-crested Drongo, Spot-tailed Goshawk, Red-knobbed and Tarictic Hornbills. If you travel by sea watch out for Lesser Frigatebird, Brown and Red-footed Boobies, Sooty Tern and several species of swallow.

Other Wildlife
Spectral Tarsier, a tiny,, nocturnal primate; Bear Cuscus, a pouched mammal related to the kangaroo, that moves slowly through the canopy aided by a prehensile tail; black macaques.

Getting there
Reach Tangkoko by land or sea from Manado
Buses depart hourly from Paal II bus terminal for Bitung and Girian (IDR 5,000). At Girian change to mikrolet or open-backed jeep (IDR 5,000) to the village of Batuputih on the western boundary of the reserve.

Cars may be chartered from hotels, dive resorts or travel agencies, Barracuda Dive Resort in Molas provides a car and driver for $45 for a 1-way drop; more if you want the car to wait overnight. The travel agents on Jl Sam Ratulangi do packages to Tangkoko for about $50 a day.

By sea a more scenic way to visit Tangkoko/Dua Saudara is by boat but this is only advisable from June to September when seas are calm. Boats can be chartered from Murex and Barracuda dive resorts ($60 or more) or from Bitung Port ($38 but it is best to negotiate).

Accommodation/dining
There are few losmen/homestay in the village of Batuputih. All homestays charge $8-10 a night, including 3 spicy meals.

General information
The best time to visit is May-October, it is hottest and most crowded in July and August. Plan on spending at least 2 full days in the reserve; one to climb to the top of Mt Tangkoko and 1 to explore the lowland forest and forest edges.

No permit is required, but you must report to PHPA at the reserve entrance. The entrance fee costs IDR 2,000 a day, and you have to hire one guide ($5-8 per day) per group of 4 visitors (tips appreciated).
There are many interesting walks in the Nature Reserve. These include a 6-km trail from the beach to the cloud forest on the rim of Tangkoko volcano. The trail climbs 1,100 m through all major habitats and provides opportunities to glimpse montane birds such as Fiery-browed Myna, Sulawesi Woodpecker, Sulawesi Drongo and Scaly-breasted Kingfisher. Pack a lunch and spend a full day on this trail.

There is a 4-km loop trail on gentle slopes that passes through secondary and primary forest. Along this trail are fruiting strangle figs that attract mynas, fruit doves and other fruit eating birds. The trail passes through several well known Red-knobbed Hornbill nest areas and kingfisher and chestnut-backed Thrush territories.

A 12-km trail parallels the beach although only the first 4 km are well maintained. The trail passes through grasslands, a good area for bee-eaters, White-shouldered Trillers and coucals; beach forest, where one frequently spots Slender-billed Cuckoo-dove, Sulawesi Black Pigeon and several kingfisher species; and secondary and primary forest, where White-bellied sea-eagles and Sulawesi Hawk-eagles are known to nest.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore