Birdwatching in Tanjung Puting Reserve

Tanjung Putting Reserve

Tanjung Putting reserve in Central Kalimantan province covers 3,040 sq km of low-lying terrain characterized by blackwater rivers that flow into the Java Sea. The river mouths are bordered with nipa palm and mangrove swamps. In the remote centre of the reserve are “bird lakes”, where thousands of herons and cormorants nest. There are seasonally in undated peat swamp forests, and heath forest on the drier ground. Most visitors come to see the orphaned Orang-utans at Camp Leakey, where there is a 200-m boardwalk and an extensive trail system. Over 220 species of bird have been recorded, including several species of hornbill and pheasant. The park is best explored by boat from the coastal town of Kumai.

Key species

Excellent range of rainforest and wetland species including; Storm’s Stork, Blyth’s Hawk-eagle, Leuser and grey-headed Fish-eagles, Bulwer’s Pheasant, Bay Owl, 7 species of hornbill, 10 species of woodpecker, Blue-headed Pitta, Black-and-white Bulbul and Rufous-tailed Shama.

Other wildlife

Forty species of mammal including Western Tarsier, Proboscis Monkey, Agile Gibbon and Clouded Leopard.

Getting there

All inclusive tours can be organized through Indonesia Expeditions, Jakarta. A visit to the park starts at Pangkalanbun. There are daily flights from Jakarta, Pontianak, and Banjarmasin. Taxis can be chartered from the airport to the coastal town of Kumai ($20). Alternatively, take a colt from the market in nearby Sungai Arot to Kumai (IDR 5,000, 30 min). Pelni ships from Semarang and Surabaya call at Kumai every 2 weeks.

General information

A surat jalan for the park is required from the police office in Pangkalanbun (you will need a photocopy of the photo-page of your passport and visa stamp). This must be handed to the PHPA office on Jl Idris (the coast road) in Kumai to get a park entrance permit. The PHPA office is open 8.00 am to 2.00 pm except Friday (8.00-11.00 am) and Saturday (8.00-12.00 am). Closed Sunday. The paperwork sometimes takes an hour. Local hotels will arrange the permit for a nominal charge. Entrance fee to the park is IDR 2,500 and there is a $1-2 boat toll.

The PHPA office can arrange excursions; PHPA guide rate is IDR 25,000 per day. There are also numerous travel agents in Kumai.

Rivers provide the major travel routes into the park. The most economical means is to take the daily public water taxi from Kumai upstream to Aspai (IDR 15,000). Most visitors charter a longboat or kelotok. Hire charges are $35-40 per day.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Kutai National Park

Kalimantan

Samarinda, the capital of East Kalimantan, is the main point of embarkation for boats up the Mahakam river and the starting point for trips to Kutai National Park. Samarinda is about 115 km north of Balikpapan, and 60 km from the sea upriver on the Mahakam.

Kutai National Park

One of Indonesia’s first and largest reserves, Kutai offers excellent birding opportunities for twitchers, adventurers and the leisure tourist alike. More than 236 bird species have been recorded for the park.

Key species

Rufous-bellied Eagle, Wallace’s Hawk-eagle, Crested Partridge, Crested Fireback, Great Argus, Large Green Pigeon, Large Frogmouth, seven species of Horbill (notably Wrinkled), blue-headed Pitta, Garnet Pitta, Bornean Wren-babbler, Bornean Bristlehead, Dusky Munia.

Other wildlife

Proboscis Monkeys, Barking and Sambar Deer, Mouse-deer, Banteng, Clouded Leopard, near Mentoko, you might see wild Orang-utan, gibbons and leaf monkeys.

Getting there

Teluk Kaba from Samarinda take a taxi/kijang (2-2.5 hours, $2.50) or bus (3 hrs, $2) to Bontang. Hire a boat from Bontang (Tanjung Limau Harbour) to Teluk Kaba (1.5-2 hrs, $15).

Mentoko from Samarinda; take a bus all the way to Sangatta (4 hrs, $10). From Bontang; drive or take a bus north direct to Sangatta (about 2 hrs). from Teluk Kaba; walk 2-3 km back to the main road and take a bus to Sangatta (about 1 hr if the road is good). At sangatta; a ketinting motor boat can be chartered upriver to Mentoko (2.5 hrs, $350. a rather more expensive way to travel is to take a boat all the way from Tanjung Limau to mentoko (10 hrs for $50).

General information

The driest period is April to October. Before entering the park, visitors should report to the National Park offices (Kantor Taman Nasional Kutai, Jl Mulawarman 236, Tromolpos 1, Bontang 75283, Kalimantan Timur). The most accessible sites are Teluk Kaba and Mentoko, but hiking and camping are esy as the terrain is relatively flat. There is a 30-km jungle trail from Pinang (near Sangatta village) to mentoko, and other trails lead from Teluk Kaba. Leeches are abundant at Mentoko during the rainy months; antileech socks are most effective, and better than repellents.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore