Birdwatching in Tangkoko/Dua Saudara Nature Reserve

Tangkoko/Dua saudara Nature Reserve

Three forested volcanoes form the core of this 8,800 ha reserve on the northernmost tip of Sulawesi. An open forest understorey makes for excellent viewing conditions at all levels in the canopy and on the ground, and an abundance of figs and other fruit trees results in high densities of fruit-eating birds and mammals. It is possible to bird coral flats, lowland forests and cloud forest on volcanic summits all in a day, but you will get more out of the trip if you allow at least 2 days.

Key species

Forty-seven Sulawesi endemics including Red-billed and Sulawesi Hanging-parrots, Yellow-breasted and Golden-matled Racquet-tails, Blue-backed Parrot and Yellow-and-green Lorikeet. Yellow-billed Malkoha, Hair-crested Drongo, Spot-tailed Goshawk, Red-knobbed and Tarictic Hornbills. If you travel by sea watch out for Lesser Frigatebird, Brown and Red-footed Boobies, Sooty Tern and several species of swallow.

Other Wildlife
Spectral Tarsier, a tiny,, nocturnal primate; Bear Cuscus, a pouched mammal related to the kangaroo, that moves slowly through the canopy aided by a prehensile tail; black macaques.

Getting there
Reach Tangkoko by land or sea from Manado
Buses depart hourly from Paal II bus terminal for Bitung and Girian (IDR 5,000). At Girian change to mikrolet or open-backed jeep (IDR 5,000) to the village of Batuputih on the western boundary of the reserve.

Cars may be chartered from hotels, dive resorts or travel agencies, Barracuda Dive Resort in Molas provides a car and driver for $45 for a 1-way drop; more if you want the car to wait overnight. The travel agents on Jl Sam Ratulangi do packages to Tangkoko for about $50 a day.

By sea a more scenic way to visit Tangkoko/Dua Saudara is by boat but this is only advisable from June to September when seas are calm. Boats can be chartered from Murex and Barracuda dive resorts ($60 or more) or from Bitung Port ($38 but it is best to negotiate).

Accommodation/dining
There are few losmen/homestay in the village of Batuputih. All homestays charge $8-10 a night, including 3 spicy meals.

General information
The best time to visit is May-October, it is hottest and most crowded in July and August. Plan on spending at least 2 full days in the reserve; one to climb to the top of Mt Tangkoko and 1 to explore the lowland forest and forest edges.

No permit is required, but you must report to PHPA at the reserve entrance. The entrance fee costs IDR 2,000 a day, and you have to hire one guide ($5-8 per day) per group of 4 visitors (tips appreciated).
There are many interesting walks in the Nature Reserve. These include a 6-km trail from the beach to the cloud forest on the rim of Tangkoko volcano. The trail climbs 1,100 m through all major habitats and provides opportunities to glimpse montane birds such as Fiery-browed Myna, Sulawesi Woodpecker, Sulawesi Drongo and Scaly-breasted Kingfisher. Pack a lunch and spend a full day on this trail.

There is a 4-km loop trail on gentle slopes that passes through secondary and primary forest. Along this trail are fruiting strangle figs that attract mynas, fruit doves and other fruit eating birds. The trail passes through several well known Red-knobbed Hornbill nest areas and kingfisher and chestnut-backed Thrush territories.

A 12-km trail parallels the beach although only the first 4 km are well maintained. The trail passes through grasslands, a good area for bee-eaters, White-shouldered Trillers and coucals; beach forest, where one frequently spots Slender-billed Cuckoo-dove, Sulawesi Black Pigeon and several kingfisher species; and secondary and primary forest, where White-bellied sea-eagles and Sulawesi Hawk-eagles are known to nest.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Lore Lindu National Park

Lore Lindu National Park
The 200,000 ha Lore Lindu National Park in the north of central Sulawesi is one of Asia’s premier birding destinations-it is possible to see 80% of sulawesi’s 96 endemic bird species in a visit of 4-5 days. The park covers the Lindu, Besoa, Bada and Napu valleys-famous for their ancient megaliths-and the mountain ridges in between. Birders tend to head for the higher ground where most of the endemics are found, and the most popular base is Kamarora at the northern edge of the park on the road to the Napu Velley. For those wishing to really get to know the park, an extensive system of trails links the different valleys, although bird densities seem lower in the southern parts of the park.

Key species
Many of Sulawesi’s endemics can be seen at Tangkoko and dumoga Bone; what sets Lore Lindu apart is the easy access to high altitude forests which have a distinct set of endemics. Birds like: Malia, Sulphur-bellied, Yellow-flanked and Maroon-backed Whistlers, White-eyed Myza, Streak-headed Darkeye and Fiery-browed Myna.

Other wildlife
Both species of Sulawesi’s endemic dwarf buffalo, or anoa. Black Macaques and babirusa.

Getting there
Access to Lore Lindu is via Palu, the provincial capital of Central Sulawesi. You can get to the park by bus (from the main bus station-Masomba market terminal), or yoou can organize a 4-wheel drive vehicle and driver from one of the tourist agents in Palu.

Both have their disadvantages. If you go by bus, do not be surprised if the journey takes most of a day, as this road is probably the worst in the southern hemisphere. A 4WD vehicle, on the other hand, can be expensive. A good compromise is to hire transport for a day to take you to the pass at the Anaso turn-off (as high as a vehicle can go) and, after the day’s birding, ask the driver to drop you at Kamarora on the way back. If you choose this option, start early from Palu, or you will get to the top too late for the early birds. Allow at least 4 hrs for this trip.

General Information
If trekking between the areas below, a guide is advised as trails are poorly way-marked. Horses or porters can be hired to carry packs. There are PHPA posts in most villages, the staff of which are welcoming to guests provided that you have park entry permits from the SKSDA office in Palu.

To get to the Napu Valley, take the direct public bus from Palu and stay at the losmen with restaurant; for the Bada valley (Gintu), there is a MAF flight from Poso, then take a jeep to the homestays. Tentena (Poso) is a 2-day walk from Gimpu. To go to Saluki, take the direct bus from Palu, and walk one hour to the Maleo watchtowers. Toro is connected to Palu by a daily direct bus and you can stay at the PHPA post there. The Lindu Valley is accessible via public bus from Palu to Sidaunta; (where you can stay at the homestay at the PHPA post) then continue by horse or foot. Kamarora is the place to base yourself when visiting the park.

Accommodation/dining
The very basic PHPA bungalows in Kamarora can accommodate up to 15 people; book in advance at PHPA Palu office, Jl Parman 9, no restaurant; bring your own food from Palu and make arrangements with the ranger’s wife to cook it.

General Information
It is essential to get a permit for the park. Obtain it from the BKSDA office at JL Mohammed Yamin (road known also as “jalur dua”) before leaving Palu. Costs IDR 5,000.