Searching for mountain specialities
The higher montane forest above 1,600 m is home to Seram’s third endemic parrot species, the blue eared Lory, and such mountain pigeon, spectacled Honeyeater, Crimson Myzomela (between 700-1400 m) and Grey hooded Darkeye. The trails over the Kabipolo and Binaya ridges both reach sufficient altitude for these, but only the trail to the summit of Mt Binaya clims high enough to enter the alpine forest habitat of Seram’s unique, white-headed race of island Thrush.
Kanikeh is the base for the 4-day return trek to the summit of Mt Binaya (2,850 m), where spectacular views await the intrepid. It is essential that you take local guide, warm clothes and a tent. Wae Hulu, a camp with water at 2,050 m, is reached after a 6-7 hr hike, and it is a further day to the camp just below the summit.
From Kanikeh it is an 8-hr, straight walk to Manusela; Selumena is about half way. After climbing out of the Kanikeh valley the trail drops into a wide, undulating valley and mostly follows the river through a mosaic of fruit gardens, sago palms, rattan and bamboo within secondary forest. The birding is excellent, so allow plenty of time or stay at the village of Selumena. After Selumena there are several rivers to be forded, but it is extremely dangerous to attempt this if they are in flood following a rainstorm, and there is no option but to camp and wait until morning.
The trail from Manusela to the south coast provides another opportunity to catch up with the mountain specialities; the fern zone at 2,000 m is reached after a hard, 3-4 hr, uphill climb. There is no water on these limestone ridges and you need to be fit and tough to make it over the top and down toMosso in a day.
Even though there is a certain satisfaction in trekking across the island, it would a pity to miss out on the great birding to be found on the trail back to Wahai via the Kobipolo ridge.
The first night’s camp, along an at times near vertical trail, is at a cave near the Mahala waterfall, up on the ridge at 1,220 m; the next day takes you down through pristine lowland forests into the swamp forest of the Mual plains. The large, mammal-like droppings of southern Cassowary are everywhere. If you are lucky you may disturb a cassowary on the trail, but the birds can smell and hear you long before you approach. The best way to see one is to climb a tree that is dropping fruit, and wait patiently. The flightless cassowaries have been on Seram for thousands of years but, as it is an oceanic island, they must have been introduced by man from their native New Guinea.
During the 7-hour walk to Solealama, and the next day’s walk to the village of Solea along the River Toloarang, try to find a tree in fruit where you can get good views of the canopy-perhaps at the edge of a river-and spend some time watching Superb and Claret-breasted Fruit-doves, which are some of the most wonderfully coloured and patterned pigeons in the world.
Wherever you finally return to civilization, you will certainly be tired, filthy and dreaming of a mandi and good meal. But without doubt you will savour the memory of a remarkable birding adventure.
Source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
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Moluccas Birding: Into the interior deep forest
Into the interior
Park ranger will act as your guides for longer treks into the park; supplies can be bought in Wahai. The best birding route is a circular, 7-10 day trek from Wahai to kanikeh and Selumena in the Manusela valley, returning to Wahai via the Kobipoto ridge and the Mual plains. However, many people like to trek across the island, continuing on from Selumena to Manusela and then crossing the Binaya ridge to Mosso on the south coast. A third option is to return from Selumena to Pasahari by a less interesting, 3- day hike down the Isal valley, which forms the eastern border of the park. The village of Kanikeh, at the entrance to the cultivated Manusela valley, is a 4-day walk from Wahai (3 days if you relly move).
Spend the first two days on the trail that leads to the village of Roho; it passes through a logging concession where the forest is disturbed, but this does not detract from the birding. Raucous screeches will alert you to groups of Salmon-crested Cockatoos, either flying overhead or collecting in a roosting tree. Listen also for the strident call of the Lazuli Kingfisher, sitting high on an exposed vantage point. Other notable species on this part of the walk are likely to be Forsten’s Megapode (recently split off from orange-footed Scrubfowl as a separate species), Pale Cicada bird, Moluccan Cuckoo-shrike, Spectacled Monarch, Streak-breasted Fantail and Long-crested Myna.
After Roho, the trail enters uncut forest and steadly climbs a ridge. The forest here is stunted and bird densities are relatively low. However, views of Moluccan King Parrot, Blyth’s Hornbill, White bibbed Fruit-dove, Golden Bulbul and Rufous Fantail will maintain your interest until, after 3-4 hrs, the trail drops down to the Wasa Mata river and an overnight shelter.
If your time is limited you may wish to press on to Kanikeh, a further 4- to 5-hr walk. But this section of the trail passes through a beautiful mosaic of bamboo and mid-montane forest which is worth giving time to, especially as it is the habitat of the fabulous Purple-naped Lory. Which feeds on flowering rattan or the red fruits of a climbing pandan.
The inhabitantsof Kanikeh, a village of 60 houses on a ridge above the Wae Ule river, have supplemented their meager incomes for at least 50 years by catching Purple-naped Lories and trading them on the coast. Using a decoy lorry, villagers attract wild lories to nylon snares wrapped around exposed branches. A good decoy lorry is a treasured family possession. Around Kanikeh look out for Drab Myzomela in the tree tops. Bicoloured Darkeye is common in the area and there is a good chance of Nicobar Pigeon, Cinnamon-chested Flycatcher and Black-fronted White-eye.
Source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
Park ranger will act as your guides for longer treks into the park; supplies can be bought in Wahai. The best birding route is a circular, 7-10 day trek from Wahai to kanikeh and Selumena in the Manusela valley, returning to Wahai via the Kobipoto ridge and the Mual plains. However, many people like to trek across the island, continuing on from Selumena to Manusela and then crossing the Binaya ridge to Mosso on the south coast. A third option is to return from Selumena to Pasahari by a less interesting, 3- day hike down the Isal valley, which forms the eastern border of the park. The village of Kanikeh, at the entrance to the cultivated Manusela valley, is a 4-day walk from Wahai (3 days if you relly move).
Spend the first two days on the trail that leads to the village of Roho; it passes through a logging concession where the forest is disturbed, but this does not detract from the birding. Raucous screeches will alert you to groups of Salmon-crested Cockatoos, either flying overhead or collecting in a roosting tree. Listen also for the strident call of the Lazuli Kingfisher, sitting high on an exposed vantage point. Other notable species on this part of the walk are likely to be Forsten’s Megapode (recently split off from orange-footed Scrubfowl as a separate species), Pale Cicada bird, Moluccan Cuckoo-shrike, Spectacled Monarch, Streak-breasted Fantail and Long-crested Myna.
After Roho, the trail enters uncut forest and steadly climbs a ridge. The forest here is stunted and bird densities are relatively low. However, views of Moluccan King Parrot, Blyth’s Hornbill, White bibbed Fruit-dove, Golden Bulbul and Rufous Fantail will maintain your interest until, after 3-4 hrs, the trail drops down to the Wasa Mata river and an overnight shelter.
If your time is limited you may wish to press on to Kanikeh, a further 4- to 5-hr walk. But this section of the trail passes through a beautiful mosaic of bamboo and mid-montane forest which is worth giving time to, especially as it is the habitat of the fabulous Purple-naped Lory. Which feeds on flowering rattan or the red fruits of a climbing pandan.
The inhabitantsof Kanikeh, a village of 60 houses on a ridge above the Wae Ule river, have supplemented their meager incomes for at least 50 years by catching Purple-naped Lories and trading them on the coast. Using a decoy lorry, villagers attract wild lories to nylon snares wrapped around exposed branches. A good decoy lorry is a treasured family possession. Around Kanikeh look out for Drab Myzomela in the tree tops. Bicoloured Darkeye is common in the area and there is a good chance of Nicobar Pigeon, Cinnamon-chested Flycatcher and Black-fronted White-eye.
Source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
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