Up into the hills
Now it is time to head for our first night’s destination, Bedugul in the central highlands- a mere 1 to ½ hour’s drive. An alternative more leisurely option is to make a whole day of the next stage of the journey with a detour via the amazing jungle temple, Pura Luhur, on the southern slopes of Mt Batukau. This will take you through the most spectacular landscape on the island-weather permitting.
Taking the Jl. Ngurah Rai bypass road, go straight across the crossroads in Tohpati and come out north of Denpasar on the road to Tabanan. In Tabanan pay heed to the one-way system, taking a right turn after the market and doubling back so as to reach the road leading north to Penebel. Half way to Penebel, take a left turn to Yehpanas (hot springs), continuing north to the Pura Luhur. At Tengkudak pause briefly to visit astonishing church- a brick, syncretic folly elaborated with Balinese sculpted angels and demons-before proceeding to Wangagadege (Wangaye for short), where the jungle begins. The road climbs more steeply now, and it is worth stopping to examine one or more of the vast, wayside fig trees for imperial and green pigeons, fruit-doves, minivets and barbets. The distribution of the latter in Bali, their last oriental outpost, is strange: here, in central Bali, orange-fronted, blue eared and coppersmith Barbets can be seen together in the same tree.
Some doubtless well-intentioned “improvements” to the temple precints have recently been made and the old rustic spirit of the sanctuary has to some extent now been lost. Even the lake has been cleaned up. But no matter, there are still birds in abundance. Mugimaki, little Pied and Grey-headed Flycatchers, Black-naped Monarchs, Whiterumped Warblers, Black-winged Hemipus, and orange-bellied and Blood-breasted Flowerpeckers will all be found here. You are almost bound to see the striking, pied White-crowned Forktail. Look for it in the feeder streams to the shrines and pond or, failing there, in the tumbling river-bed, which nay be gained by taking the forest path on the left before the temple.
After a bathe in the river, which is icy and so clean that you can drink from it, it is time to return to Wangaye, from where you turn left on to the pot-holed road to Jatiluwih. Drive slowly along this road, not because it is bad, but so as not to miss the wonderful landscape. There are various contenders for the most scenic route in Bali, but this one surely takes the prize. Pied Bushchats and Javan Kingfishers are everywhere-and keep an eye to the heavens for Black Eagle. Break the journey at Jatiluwih (the name means “lovely view”) and over a picnic lunch gaze in awe at the unfolding panorama of rolling rice terraces…and go on gazing. And on at length to the hamlet which is listingly Senganan Kanginan, then left on a slightly better road which joins the main road to Bedugul at Pacung.
If you do not take a packed lunch, the restaurant Mutiara Sari in Baturiti has a fine bill of fare and, amazingly, fresh milk from the local dairy herd. If it is a nice day, sit out in the ornamental garden; the view here also grand. What is that peculiar liquid twitter, followed by a shushing sound? Here are the first Brown Honeyeaters of the tour.