Birdwatching in Tanah Batu Putih, Halmahera (Maluku)

Halmahera
Most birders satisfy themselves with birding around Kali Batu Putih and Sidangoli mangroves, where virtually all the 24 speciees endemic to Norrth Maluku can be found but, time and budget permitting, a 4-5 day trip to the standarwing lek at Labi-labi and Moluccan Scrubfowl nestground at Galela is recommended.

Tanah Batu Putih
This is an area of logged and disturbed forest in the hills leading oout of Sidangoli, where most of Halmaheera’s speciality species can be seen during a 3-4 day visit. A basic birwatchers’ losmen is run by Demianus Bagali, usually known as Anu.

Key species
Most species endemic to North maluku including: Wallace’s Standarwing, Paradise Crow, Ivory-breasted Pitta, Dusky Scrubfowl, Moluccan Owlet-nightjar, Gurney’s Eagle, Halmahera Cuckoo-shrike. Invisible Rail was re-discovered by Anu in the nearby Akelolo sago swamp.

Accommodation
Anu’s losmen burnt down in 1995. he is rebuilding it on the left of the road by the start of the logging trail $8 per night; $6 extra for three basic meals. Anu charges $12 per day for guiding.

Getting there
From the ferry terminal at Sidangoli take a bemo (IDR 9,000) or becak (IDR 2,000) to Anu’s brother shop, Toko mandiri, in Desa Domato, 1 km away. He will tell you where Anu is and run you up to Tanah Batu Putih for $4.50.

General information
Anu known the best sites to see each of the key species and they are also noted in the birder’s logbook. There are three main trails; the first climbs a hill of good forest across the stream in the valley to the right of Anu’s losmen and is the place to see Wallace’s Standardwing Ivory breasted Pitta and Nicobar Pigeon. To the left of the main road, and old logging trail leading up the valley for several km is the most productive birding area. A summit, a 2-km wwalk up the main road, provides an excellent vantage point to watch for raptors at midday.

In Sidangoli, the Akelolo sago swamp, where invisible rail has recently been seen, should not be missed. The nicest wway to get there is to hire a longboat from Sidangoli ($10-15) for the journey through the mangroves to the village of Akelolo. Good chance of Beach Kingfisher and plenty of Imperial Pigeons. Alternatively, the swamp can be reached on foot. It is a hot, 2-km walk along a trail on the right of the main road, 1 km oout of Siddangoli. Exploring the swamp requires wading up to your knees in mud-and the rail only calls after heavy rrain! Yoou will need Anu to show you the beest area; do not forget to ask him to show you the Great-billed Heron nest tree.