Birdwatching in Wasur National Park (Papua)

Wasur National Park

The 13,00 ha Wasur National Park, located in the extreme southeast of Papua, bordering the Papua New Guinea border, is a veritable bird paradise and access is easy. The flat expanse of the vast Fly-Digul River delta is a mosaic of swamps, reedbeds and open savannah woodlands with denser forests along the rivers. In the dry season, literally thousands of waterbirds-many migrants from Australia-concentrate on the receding pools. There are mangroves and mudflats to search for shorebirds, and two species of bird-of-paradise in the denser forest.

Key species

Australian Bustard

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Southern Cassowary, Brolga Crane, Magpie Goose, Australian Bustard, Noisy Pitta, Rufous-bellied and Spangled Kookaburras. Recently, Crimson Finch, White-spotted and Grey-crowned Mannikins and Fly River Grassbird have all been recorde on the Papua side of the Fly River and are all new additions to the Indonesian bird list. Black Mannikin, present just a few km across the border in Papua New Guinea, has not yet been confirmed in Wasur National Park.

Other wildlife

Sugar Glider, Striped Possum, Rusa Deer, Agile Wallaby and forest wallabies, bandicoots and cuscus.

Getting there

The best place to get information and help in arranging tours to the national park is the World Wide Fund for Nature office on Jl Brawijaya sepadem, WWF are developing community tourism activities, including birding, in the park. Hiring a jeep is expensive unless you are in a group (around $75 a day, which includes driver/guide and fuel). It is cheaper and more pleasant to hire horses from the villagers. This creates less disturbance and provides a good vantage point for watching birds if you hang on (the horse are very tame). The WWF office will give you the price per day and can help you arrange a guide. The park entrance fee (pay at either Wasur or Ndalir KSDA posts) is a IDR 2,000 per person. Do not forget copies of your surat jalan for the police posts in the park.

For the Maro river trip, you ideally need two days. Arrange boat hire from the Kelapa Lima Maro river crossing, just to the north of Merauke. Like jeep hire, it is more economical if there are several people sharing the expense. Prices could be from IDR 400,000-900,000 per day including a boatman. Take all your own food.

Accommodation/dining

There are guest-houses in four villages; Yanggandur and Soa (for greater Bird-of-paradise), Onggaya (by the beach near Ndalir) and Soa (on the Maro river). These provide very simple accommodation, cooking equipment ets. Take your own food and water into the park.

General information

The best time to visit from August to December.

If you hire a jeep and driver for the 3-day trip described in the colour section, spend the first night at Tomeran village and the second at Ukra. Leave Ukra mid-morning to get to Rawa Biru by early afternoon. Ask the driver to meet you in Yanggandur and spend the rest of the afternoon (3-4 hrs) walking the track up to Yanggandur. Spend the night here for a dawn sighting of Greater Bird-of-paradise. Leave Yanggandur mid-morning to allow time to look around Wasur village on the way back to town. If you only have 2 nights, go straight to Ukra on the first night (you can get there in one day if you rush) and Yanggandur on the second.

At the village of Soa, about 5-6 hours up river (depending on tide), arrange for guide to take you in the monsoon forest nearby. Best chances to find the King Bird-of-paradise will be early in the morning.

Be very of snakes in Wasur; there are some real nasties including Taipan and Death Adder. There is no snake bite serum available in Merauke, so watch where you tread.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in The Lake Habbema Trek

The lake Habbema Trek

One of the world’s classic birding treks, from the high alpine lake and marshes down through pine, moss and rain forest into the Baliem Valley. Truly amazing birds-see below-and a people and culture from another age. Not tobe missed, and, as there is a road up to lake Habbema, the birds can be enjoyed on a (mostly) downhill trail.

Key species

Blue-breasted Quails

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Snow Mountain and Blue-breasted Quails, Swinhoe’s Snipe, Orange-billed Lorikeet, Painted Tiger-parrot, Lorentz’s Whistler, Sooty Honeyeater, Snow Mountain Munia, Archbold’s Bowerbird, Macgregor’s Bird-of-paradise, Brown Sicklebill, Splendid Astrapia, King of Saxony Bird-of-paradise.

Getting there

To get to Lake Habbema, charter a jeep ($30) for the 90-min drive up a new road.

General information

The requisite surat jalan should be obtained, eg at Jayapura/Sentani, before flying into Wamena. When you arrive in Wamena, the police check your passport and permit. The desk clerk at the hotel/losmen will ask for these, and will usually be able to send someone to the police station (which is just behind Pasar Nayak) to take care of this for you. Make sure that your permit is endorsed for Lake Habbema, if necessary.

The trek runs up the Ibele Valley, from the village of the same name to Lake Habbema. It can be done in either direction and, although there is some satisfaction in walking up through the different habitats found with increasing altitude, and out into the alpine zone, it is hard not to resist taking the new road to “the top” at Lake Habbema and enjoying the birding while walking downhill.

There are no “official” places to stay or eat on the trail. It is possible to manage without a tent-by staying in the rather dilapidated “post”-but it is helpful to have one available. Food has to be carried in, as only sweet potatoes and eggs, are available in the villages.

The first day is spent birding the alpine grasslands and marshes around Lake Habbema (3,000 m), with a spectacular panorama across to the rugged, snow-capped peaks of the Snow (Jayawijaya) Mountains, Pos IV, a hut by the lake, is dilapidated and leaky. From the lake it is about a 2-hr walk over the pass (3,200 m) to Pos III, located in moss forest and the place to stay for the first night. The trail down the Ibele valley is not too steep, but can be very muddy and slippery.

Walking times (at an average birding pace) between places to stay are listed below.

How long you take is entirely up to you.

Habbema to Pos III 1.5-2 hrs

Pos III to Yaubagema 3 hrs

Yaubagema to Dyela 3 hrs

Dyela to Ibele 5 hrs

Ibele to Beneme 2.5 hrs

Alternatively,

Dyela to Depolo 3 hrs,

Depolo to Beneme 5 hrs

At Beneme the cultivation starts. You can catch a bus (or truck) back to Wamena from either Ibele or Beneme (1.5 or 1 hr).

Rain is a possibility at any time but there is said to be drier period from March-May, with July also relatively dry. The temperature is generally pleasant during the day but it can be cold at night, particularly at the higher altitudes.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore