Lore Lindu National Park
The 200,000 ha Lore Lindu National Park in the north of central Sulawesi is one of Asia’s premier birding destinations-it is possible to see 80% of sulawesi’s 96 endemic bird species in a visit of 4-5 days. The park covers the Lindu, Besoa, Bada and Napu valleys-famous for their ancient megaliths-and the mountain ridges in between. Birders tend to head for the higher ground where most of the endemics are found, and the most popular base is Kamarora at the northern edge of the park on the road to the Napu Velley. For those wishing to really get to know the park, an extensive system of trails links the different valleys, although bird densities seem lower in the southern parts of the park.
Key species
Many of Sulawesi’s endemics can be seen at Tangkoko and dumoga Bone; what sets Lore Lindu apart is the easy access to high altitude forests which have a distinct set of endemics. Birds like: Malia, Sulphur-bellied, Yellow-flanked and Maroon-backed Whistlers, White-eyed Myza, Streak-headed Darkeye and Fiery-browed Myna.
Other wildlife
Both species of Sulawesi’s endemic dwarf buffalo, or anoa. Black Macaques and babirusa.
Getting there
Access to Lore Lindu is via Palu, the provincial capital of Central Sulawesi. You can get to the park by bus (from the main bus station-Masomba market terminal), or yoou can organize a 4-wheel drive vehicle and driver from one of the tourist agents in Palu.
Both have their disadvantages. If you go by bus, do not be surprised if the journey takes most of a day, as this road is probably the worst in the southern hemisphere. A 4WD vehicle, on the other hand, can be expensive. A good compromise is to hire transport for a day to take you to the pass at the Anaso turn-off (as high as a vehicle can go) and, after the day’s birding, ask the driver to drop you at Kamarora on the way back. If you choose this option, start early from Palu, or you will get to the top too late for the early birds. Allow at least 4 hrs for this trip.
General Information
If trekking between the areas below, a guide is advised as trails are poorly way-marked. Horses or porters can be hired to carry packs. There are PHPA posts in most villages, the staff of which are welcoming to guests provided that you have park entry permits from the SKSDA office in Palu.
To get to the Napu Valley, take the direct public bus from Palu and stay at the losmen with restaurant; for the Bada valley (Gintu), there is a MAF flight from Poso, then take a jeep to the homestays. Tentena (Poso) is a 2-day walk from Gimpu. To go to Saluki, take the direct bus from Palu, and walk one hour to the Maleo watchtowers. Toro is connected to Palu by a daily direct bus and you can stay at the PHPA post there. The Lindu Valley is accessible via public bus from Palu to Sidaunta; (where you can stay at the homestay at the PHPA post) then continue by horse or foot. Kamarora is the place to base yourself when visiting the park.
Accommodation/dining
The very basic PHPA bungalows in Kamarora can accommodate up to 15 people; book in advance at PHPA Palu office, Jl Parman 9, no restaurant; bring your own food from Palu and make arrangements with the ranger’s wife to cook it.
General Information
It is essential to get a permit for the park. Obtain it from the BKSDA office at JL Mohammed Yamin (road known also as “jalur dua”) before leaving Palu. Costs IDR 5,000.
Birdbody berisi informasi seputar pariwisata, hotel, kuliner dan budaya khas Indonesia
Birdwatching in Lake Tempe (Sulawesi)
This shallow complex of lakes, with its intensive fishing industry, is a haven for large numbers of many waterbird species, especially in the man-made structures of floating vegetation (bungka) unique to this area. Halfway between the provincial capital of Ujung Pandang and crowd-pulling Tana Toraja, Tempe lies in the Buginese heartland and at the centre of the Sulawesi silk-weaving industry. While it is a must for the keen birder, everyone will find a half-day trip to the lakes delightful, as seeing birds is nowhere easier.
Key species
Seasonally (usually Nov-Jan) up to 5,000+ Glossy Ibis, 10,000+ Garganey and tens of thousands of reed-warblers, Little Grebe, Little Pied Cormorant, Darter, Purple and Common Moorhens, Comb-crested Jacana, Yellow, Cinnamon and Black Bitterns, Black crowned and Nankeen Night-herons, and Purple Heron, occasionally Milky Stork and Osprey.
Other Wildlife
Soa-soa, or sail-fin Lizard, several species of Monitor Lizard, and Sulawesi ’s only aquatic tortoise, Asian Box Turtle.
Getting there
By car the 220-km journey from Ujung Pandang to Sengkang takes about 4 hrs, there are two major routes. The quicker is the coastal road which snakes along a narrow coastal plain to Pare-pare (2.5 hrs), from where you follow the major road to Tana Toraja that runs north of the lakes. After about an hour you reach a major junction; here you turn south to Sengkang (another 30 min).
A slower but more interesting alternative is via Camba. From Ujung Pandang follow the coastal road north to Maros (35 km), then head due east towards the wonderful karst landscape of Bantimurung (waterfalls and butterflies). At Bantimurung follow the road in the direction of Camba-it winds very slowly up the limestone escarpment, through a nature park (Camba) and offers to Soppeng (or Watansoppeng) is not as busy as the coastal road, taking about 2.5 hours; Soppeng-Sengkang is another 30 min.
By bus alternatively, take a public; bus to Pare-pare (2-3 hrs) and from there a bus to Sengkang (another 1.5 haours). About $2,50.
Once in Sengkang it is easy to rent an outbond-powered Buginese longboat plus crew of two. Negotiate a price (usually per hr or half day, depending on what you want) beforehand- a half day will cost about $17-25, depending on your bargaining skills and the mood of your boatman. Best place to rent a boat is along the Walanae river, north of downtown Sengkang.
General information
Best time to visit is Oct-Jan, when water levels are low. The fishing season peaks then, and it coincides with the arrival of migratory waterbirds such as Glossy Ibis and Garganey. As usual, early morning and late afternoon are best to trips on the lakes, not only because of the birds but because the heat of the sun can be a torment while sitting in a boat (none has a roof). Bring lots of water, sun cream and an umbrella (for sun and rain). Depending on what you want to see, you can spend 2-3 hrs on a quick look at the best spots, or 2-3 days if you want to tour all there lakes and see wildlife along the interconnecting streams. Guides are not necessary if water levels are high, but if they are low you will not find the channels and it is generally wise to travel with a boatman. It is also useful that local boatman know the rules regarding fishing nets and how to avoid snagging them. Be aware that the bungka are strictly off limits.
taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore
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