Indonesia Tourism

Birdwatching in Way Kambas National Park (Sumatra)

Bandar Lampung

Bandar Lampung (often called Tanjung Karang) is the capital of Lampung Province. It is easily accessible from Jakarta, making excarsions to Way Kambas and Bukit Barisan National Park quite feasible for visitors to West Java.

Way Kambas National Park

Way Kambas, on the east coast of Sumatra’s Lampung Province, is one of Indonesia’s best known wildlife reserves. Tigers still roam the reserve, as do large herds of elephant. For the bird-watcher, the way Kanan area is much preferred to the more generally visited Way Kambas, with its elephant training centre. The trails and canoe trips offer the opportunity to see a wide range of lowland forest birds and the possibility of seeing great rarities such as White-winged Duck and Storm’s Stork.

Key species

White-winged Duck, Storm’s Stork, Large, Gould’s and Sunda Frogmouths, Crested Fireback, Great Argus, Grey-headed Fish-eagle, Checker-throated Yellownape.

Other wildlife

Siamang, Agile Gibbon, Banded and Silvered Leaf Monkeys, Elephant. Tiger and Tapir are present but very rarely seen.

Getting there

By car Way Kambas is 7-8 hrs by car and ferry from Jakarta. The turning east for way Kambas off the Trans-Sumatran highway is signposted at Panjang, 4 km south of Bandar Lampung and 85 km north of Bakauheni harbour. Follow the road to Way Jepara and on to Rajabasalama (92 km). in Rajabasalama turn right at the stone elephant; the park entrance is reached after 7 km and Way Kanan after a further 13 km. or take the Kota Bumi road north out of Bandar Lampung and follow the elephant signs.

By bus direct buses, signed to Way Jepara, leave from Rajabasa bus station in Bandar Lampung; the last bus departs at 3 pm, but you should depart by lunchtime as the ojek drivers will not enter the park after dusk. The journey takes 3 hrs and costs $1.50. get off at the stone elephant at Rajabasalama and hire an ojek for the 20-km journey to Way Kanan, $4.50

From Bandar Lampung airport, which is the northern Rajabasalama road, simply step out and flag down a Way Jepara bus. Alternatively you can take a taxi direct to Way Kanan ($25.00)

Accommodatin/dining

There is a 6-room guest house at Way Kanan. Quite basic, but clean sheets, $12.50D. you need to bring your own food but you can use the rangers’ kitchen.

General information

The dry season, May-Nov, is the best time to visit the wildlife reserve. To obtain a permit, pay $2 at the park entrance, or get it in advance from PHPA in Bandar Lampung. A rangers’ cooperative organizes the Way Kanan facilities. See map and main article for details of trails. Canoes can be hired for $12.50/day, full days only, and speedboat for $80/day.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Muaro Sako (Sumatra)

Muaro Sako

If you have time to spare after visiting Mt Kerinci, a day at Muaro Sako could be very rewarding. The bird-watching is easy-you can see a wide range of birds, including half a dozen endemics, just by walking or driving along the scenic main road through the forest.

Key species

Argus Pheasant, Helmeted Hornbill, Spot-necked and Cream-vented Bulbuls, Blue-masked Leafbird, Sumatra Drongo, Sumatra Treepie and Lesser Forktail.

Getting there

Muaro sako is village on the road between Sungai Penuh and Tapan. Buses leave Sungai Penuh for Tapan at 9.00 am and 5.00 pm. The 3-hr journey costs IDR 6,000.

Accommodation/dining

Facilities in Muaro Sako are very basic. ask at the restaurant for a room (IDR 15,000/night). The food does not come highly recommended. If you have your own transport, a long day-trip out of Sungai Penuh might be preferable.

General Information

For the best birding, simply walk back along the main road towards Sungai Penuh. The road winds through excellent forest, affording views of a wide range of species. Better still, leave the village early and hitch back up to the two warung about an hour out of Muaro Sako on the Sungai Penuh road. Then walk back down to the village (10-12 hrs).

Birdwatching in Lake Belibis (Sumatra)

Lake Belibis

On the western flank of Mt Kerinci, “duck lake” sounds promising. The 3-ha lake, with its beautiful views of Kerinci, is charming, but the forest along the 2-km, leech-infested trail from forest along the 2-km, leech-ifested trail from the edge of the plantation was badly damaged by illegal logging in the 1980s and the birding is relatively poor. You will need a guide to find the start of the trail, which is a 1 hr 50-min (2-hr) walk from Kerisik Tua.

Ladeh Payang

Not yet on the birding map, this 100-ha swamp to the west of Mt Kerinci is said to be one of the best areas in the park to see tigers. The trail starts at Kebun Baru, a 18-km road and drivable track from Kerisik Tua. It is said to be a 1.5-hr walk through cultivation to the edge of the forest and then 5.5 hrs through the forest to the swamp, where you can camp by a 3-storey watchtower. Lake Sakti is a further 2 hrs from the edge of the swamp.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Letter "W" Waterfall (Sumatra)

Letter “W” Waterfall

Continuing on the Padang road from Pelompek, after 4 km you come to a small group of scruffy cafes, which mark the start, on the left, of the 200-m track to this magnificent waterfall surrounded by a small pocket of forest. This is the most reliable site for Blue-masked Leafbird and Waterfall Swift (at dusk).

Birdwatching in Mt Tujuh Trail (Sumatra)

Mt Tujuh Trail

This scenic a stiff, 2-hr climb up a ridge to the scenic, 100-ha Lake Tujuh. There are plenty of birds to be seen and the shelter by the lake is a wonderful place to camp. Ten km from Kerisik Tua, in the direction of Padang, turn right in the village of Pelompek. After 2 km pass through the small village of Ulu Jarnih; 300 m further on is a PHPA post and the start of the trail. The first km climbs gently through cinnamon plantatins to a PHPA guest-house ($7 per night, no facilities), after which the trail becomes steep and very muddy.

Birdwatching in Mt Kerinci Summit Trail (Sumatra)

Mt Kerinci Summit Trail

This is the trail where all the key species are seen. The start of the muddy and poorly maintained trail is a 5-km (50 min) walk up through tea and cinnamon plantations from Keresik Tua, but Pak Subandi will run you up on his motorbike for a small charge. From here it is a 9.5-hr climb to the summit of Mt Kerinci. There is a base camp pondok 40 minutes up the trail beyond the entrance archway, then shelters at approximately 2-hr intervals. People normally camp below the summit and make the final ascent for dawn. For birding there is no need to exert yourself as all the best birds are at lower altitudes and trail between the entrance and the next 500 m are the best sections for birds, including Schneider’s Pitta. After this it gets steep.

Birdwatching in Kerisik Tua Area

Kerisik Tua Area

By bus the village of Kerisik Tua is at the northern end of the kerinci valley, 49 km before Sungai penuh on the inland road from padang. Anak Gunung, Gunung Kerinci and Safa Marwa bus companies operate night services from Padang to sungai Penuh, via Kerisik Tua, leaving the bus station on Jl Pemuda between 5.00 and 7.00 pm, and arriving at kerisik Tua at 2.00 or 3.00 am. It is advisable to book tickets ($3.5) in the morning from the company offices in the bus station. Safa Marwa also operates a tourist minibus which departs at 10 am, but you have to book a ticket ($8) at least two days in advance. It is not possible to buy return tickets in Kerisik Tua, so you must either travel to Sungai Penuh or arrange a return pick-up with the driver. Better still, return via Muaro Sako. Your hotel in Padang can easily arrange a taxi for the 5-6 hr journey to kerisik Tua; excpect to pay $95.

Traveling overland from north or south Sumatra, take a bus along the Trans-Sumatran Highway as far as Bangko, 1,119 km south of Medan or 829 km north of Bandar Lampung. At Bangko leave the Trans-Sumatran and take a bus westwards to Sungai Penuh, a tortous, nerve-shattering journey of c. 5 hrs, IDR 20,000 ($ 2.00). From Sungai Penuh it is a further 1.5 hrs to Keresik Tua, departures 9.00 am, 11.00 am and 5.00 pm by local bus: $1.50.

Accommodation/dining

Birders stay at homestay keluarga subandi in Kerisik Tua, located towards the south of the village, 50 m from the mosque and opposite the track through the te plantation to Mt Kerinci. Pak Subandi keeps a bird log and speaks some English. $3.00 a night per person, $1.50 per meal. There are two warung in the village. Pak Subandi will not be too put out if you arrive on a 2 am bus, but it would be polite to send him a telegram beforehand via the Eco-Rural address. There are no phones in Kerisik Tua.

General information

Permits to enter the park can be obtained at the PHPA post halfway between Kerisik Tua and the start of the Kerinci trail, or at Mt Tujuh. The main National Park office is SBKSDA office Jambi, Jl Arief Rahman Hakim No. 10, Jambi. Management: Kompleks Prkantoran Pemuda Kerinci, Jl Arga Selebar Daun, Sungai Penuh, Kerinci Seblat, Jambi.

A village cooperative called Eco-Rural (Eco-cultural Travel Cooperative, Jl Raya Sungai Penuh-Muara Labuh, Desa Kerisik Tua RT.V, Dusun III No. 19, Kayu Aro, Kerinci) organizes an excellent range of basic visitor services in the area. The cooperative has five homestays with a total of 20 rooms, provides guides ($10 per day), rents tents and sleeping bags ($2 per day), and will arrange transport around the area and back to Padang. All these services are arranged through your homestay owner. May-August is the best time to visit.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Kerinci-Seblat National Park

Kerinci-Seblat National Park

The massive and spectacular Kerinci-Seblat National Park in west Sumatra covers the large fertile Kerinci valley, and is one of Asia’s premier birding sites. The most popular base is the village of Kerisik Tua at the foot of Mt Kerinci, at 3,800 m the highest peak west of Papua. The trail up the mountain takes you through a succession of habitats culminating in sub-alpine heath and bogs towards the summit, but it is at the lower altitudes that several of Sumatra’s rarest endemics are regularly seen.

Other recommended birding sites in the vicinity are the Letter “W” waterfall and the Mt Tujuh trail, but other possibilities remain to be explored. Muaro Sako, on the road between Sungai Penuh, the main town in the valley, and Tapan, on the west coast, are good areas to see lower-altitude species.

Key species

Bronze-tailed Peacock-pheasant, Salvadori’s Pheasant, Red-billed Partridge, Horsfield’s Woodcock, Waterfall Swift, Weathed Hornbill, Fire-tufted Barbet, Orange-backed Woodpecker, Schneider’s Pitta, Pink-headed Fruit-dove, Blue-tailed Trogon, Blue-masked Leaf-ird, Sunda Laughing-thrush, Rusty-breasted Wren-babbler, Sumatran Cochoa, Sunda Treepie.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Padang (West Sumatra)

Padang

Padang (population almost 500,000) is a clean and pleasant town with interesting Minang traditional-style buildings, good hotels, decent restaurant and competent travel agencies. The huge Kerinci Seblat National Park is 120 km south of the town.

Getting there

By air there are frequent international connections with Singapore and Kuala Lumpur, regularly daily connections with Jakarta and Medan. Padang’s Tabing international airport is 15 min north of the city on the road to Bukittinggi. The 6-km taxi ride into town costs 43-5; arrange it at the airport service counter. A bemo from the main road (200 m away) costs IDR 2,000.

By sea Pelni’s KM Kerinci and Kambuna leaves Jakarta’s Tanjung Priok harbour every other Saturday morning arriving Sunday evening (36 hrs); 1^st-4^th class $100-46; “no class” tickets not recommended. The boat is always crowded.

By bus from Jakarta takes 2-3 days; $13-22; from Bandar Lampung 28 hrs, about $16.

Birdwatching in Gunung Leuser National Park (Sumatra)

Gunung Leuser National Park

The massive Gunung Leuser National Park boasts the best lowland rainforest birding to be found in Indonesia. There are two areas where access inside the forest is relatively good. The park has received major financial support from the EU, and the leuser Development Programme plans to further improve tourist access to the park.

Key species

Many species of pheasant, hornbills, pitas, trogons, woodpeckers and kingfishers.

Other wildlife

Tiger, Clouded Leopard, Sumatra Rhino, Tapir, Asian Elephant, Orang-utan and white-banded Gibbon. With the exception of the primates, all are very shy and only the determined with time to spare, or the very lucky, will be fortunate to see large mammals

Getting there

Gurah lies at the southern main entrance of gunung Leuser National Park immediately opposite the Ketambe Research Station, a distance of 35 km to the west of Kutacane, Southeast Aceh district, or about 250 km from Medan. If traveling by car from Medan, take the right fork in Kabanjahe (80 km from Medan) towards Tigabinanga. After Tigabinanga continue along the main road to Kutacane. On the left 3 km past Kutacane is the central office of Gunung Leuser National Park.

The cost of hiring a car (e.g a kijang) from Medan to Kutacena is $90. the minibus “karo indah”, “Karsima” or “Degor Jaya” run directly from Medan to Kutacane. There our hourly departures from the Padang Bulan minibus station between 7 am to 6 pm. The journey takes 5-6 hours, costing IDR 25,000.

For Gurah, take a minibus from the Kutacane terminal IDR 6,000, journey time about 1.5 hrs. last minibus for Gurah leaves Kutacane at 5 pm.

For a visit to Serakut and Suraya, the only current option is to go by rubber raft along the Alas River.

Birdwatching in Medan, Sumatra

Medan

Medan is the western gateway into Indonesia and the ideal starting point for a birding trek across the archipelago. The first stop on a birding itinerary is Brastagi, 66 km southwest of Medan.

Getting there

By air there are regular international flights to medan’s Polonia airport from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Penang and Amsterdam, as wel as regular connections from Jakarta and other domestic airports. The airport is still in the middle of the city, and you can actually walk out of the airport entrance and get straight on local transport. Airport taxis cost about $6.50.

By sea Hydrofoil services from Penang, Malyasia, to the main harbor at Belawan are available through most travel agencies. Pelni’s Bukit Guntang operates on alternate weeks between Jakarta and Belawan.

By road ALS is the best bus service to and from Java or southerly points of Sumatra, however the Trans-Sumatran Highway still leaves much to be desired and delays due to repairs etc are common.

Birdwatching in Oel Bubuk Forest (Timor Island)

Oel Bubuk Forest

A tiny (less than 5 ha) remnant of lower montane (1,100 m above sea level) evergreen forest on the way from Soe to Kapan and Mt Mutis.

Key species

Very similar to Buat, but easier to access. Chestnut-backed Thrush once recorded here (but Orange-banded more usual). Mountain White-eye and Blood-breasted Flowerpecker possible.

Getting there

Take the Soe-Kapan road. Stop at km post 14 from Soe, where the road passes through forest (for about 300 m). most of the forest is on a steep hill on the right-hand (east) side of the road. A walking trail follows the southern edge, starting at a wooden-pole gate by the roadside. There are regular bemos from Soe, fare IDR 2,000.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Oelnasi (Timor Island)

Oelnasi

A virtually unexplored, easily-accessible, large area of tall, semi-deciduous forest (450-550 m altitude), only 15 minutes west of Soe.

Key species

Same as Camplong (although 200 m higher in elevation), but more birds to be seen, apparently. Good for pigeons/doves and raptors at times. Spot-breasted Dark-eye commoner.

Getting there

Take the main Kupang-Soe road to km post 95 (about 15 km from Soe) and look for a wooden-pole gate on the northern side of the road (on the left coming from Kupang) with caretaker’s hut, opposite a stone wall. Obtain permission from the caretaker. Starting at the gate, a trail winds right through the middle of tall forest for at least 2 km, passing through several small grassy clearings, good for seeing aerial species and flying pigeons.

Birdwatching in Gunung Mutis (Timor Island)

Gunung Mutis

A 10,000-ha nature reserve covering the beautiful eucalyptus forest around the base of Mt Mutis. The forest on the lower slopes is heavily grazed; the higher slopes (above 1,600 m) are the best for birding. Officially a permit is required to visit, obtainable from the SBKSDA in Kupang.

Key species

Timor Imperial Pigeon, Chestnut-backed, sunda and Island Thrushes, Iris Lorikeet, Yellow-breasted Warbler, Pygmy Wren-babler, Snowy-browed Flycatcher.

Getting there

Take the road from Soe to Kapan (20 km; 30 mins). Take the left-hand branch in Kapan and drive for a further hr (approx 35 km to Fatumenasi). A road is currently being constructed through the reserve to Nenas, 8 km distant. The good forest and birding start above Nenas. There are regular minibuses to Kapan and Fatumenasi from Soe.

Accommodation

It is possible to stay with villagers.

Birdwatching in Soe (Timor Island)

Soe

This small pleasant town is the jumping-off point for trips to Mutis, Oel Bubek and other upland birding sites. There are numerous buses running between Kupang and Soe. Note that the buses to Soe go from the Terminal Bis Oebobo. This is situated near Walikota on Jl El Tari (the road that goes to the airport). The fare is IDR 12,500.

Buat

A scenic area of rolling, grass-covered hills and evergreen forest remnants close to Soe at about 1,000 m above sea level.

Key species

Similar to Camplong, but Spot-breasted Darkeyes, Black-banded Flycatcher and Orange-banded Thrush much more abundant. The only recent (but unconfirmed) locality for Water Ground-dove and an undescribed owl. Yellow-eared Honeyeater and metallic Pigeon abundant at times. Yellow-crested Cockatoo recorded.

Getting there

Everybody in Soe knows Buat, about 5 km to the northwest, where there is a swimming pool. It is easy to charter transport to Buat from any hotel is Soe for around IDR 70,000 (for drop only).

The road passes through white gum-tree savannah and then enters a dense mahogany plantation. At the fork on the far (northern) edge of the plantation, turn right (the left fork goes to the swimming pool) and continue on an unsealed road past new forestry offices for about 1 km until you reach rolling, grass-covered hills and tiny forest remnants. Stop here and walk to the west, where a cliff appears rather suddenly (so take care) with a magnificent view of the forested valley. You can at the southern end of the cliff.

Birdwatching in Camplong (Timor Island)

Camplong

Camplong has a small (400 ha) recreation forest on the western end of the hills that dominate most of West Timor. The forest is semi-deciduous and quite disturbed, but still full of birds.

Key species

Same as Bipolo, but much better for White-bellied Bush-chat, especially at higher elevations, Flycatcher, and also Buff-banded Bushbird. Tricoloured Parrot-finch on the wetter southern forest fringe, near the Rusa Deer compound. In the wet season watch for Palaeartic raptors.

Getting there

Follow the main Kupang-Soe road. The forest starts just beyond the pool at km post 47 and continues up the meandering road to km post 50. go as early in the morning as possible before traffic and horn tooting become too bad. There are several trails providing access into the forest. The best strategy is to take a bus to the top of the escarpment (km post 50) where the teak plantation starts, and then walk slowly back down. All buses to Soe and beyond pass through Samplong; there is no shortage of them. Cost about IDR 3,000.

Birdwatching in Bipolo (Nusa Tenggara)

Bipolo

A small 50-ha remnant of lowland evergreen or swamp forest on the northeast end of Kupang Bay. Numerous wood-cutter’s trails and tracks dissect the forest providing easy access. In the dry season walk south along the sandy river bed, and you will eventually reach a vast area of paddies, mangroves and mudflats.

Key species

All lowland forest species, but especially good for pigeons and parrots. Only known locality (since 1930s) for Timor Green Pigeon; also good for Pink-headed Imperial Pigeon, and Timor Black Pigeon. Only recent Timor locality for Great-billed Parrot; also good for Olive-headed and Rainbow Lorikeets and Olive-shouldered Parrot. Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher breeds; Elegant Pitta abundant during wet season. Timor Blue Flycatcher and Orange-banded Thrush common.

Getting there

Turn left off main Kupang-Soe road at Oelmasi, just past km post 38 (about 1 hr from Kupang). This asphalt road, which is in poor condition, eventually arrives at Pariti. About 14 km from the Oelmasi turn-off is the village of Bipolo. Follow the road through Bipolo to a bridge over the river bed. After the bridge the road passes through forest for about 1.5 km until it reaches the next hamlet, Taupkole. To reach the paddies and mangroves to the south, follow the edge of forest (along the creek bed on the eastern forest edge, or from Taupkole along the edge of the tek plantation).

By public transport buses to Parita leave from Walikota bus station in Kupang. The last bus back is between 6.30 and 7 pm. The fare to Oelmasi is IDR 7,500. a taxi charter from Kupang will cost $25, extra if he has to wait.

Accommodation

Check with the sekretaris Desa Bipolo, who should be able to arrange for you to stay with a family. Take food with you as the area is poor.

source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Baumata (Timor Island)

Baumata

A mixture of old forest trees, teak plantations and scrub behind the public swimming pool of Baumata, 9 km from Oesapa, which is where the main road to El Tari airport leaves the main Soe road (8,5 km from Kupang). Great spot to start birding, only half hour from Kupang with no shortage of transport.

Key species

Exceptionally good for Red-rumped Myzomela, Streak-breasted Meliphagar and two friarbird species. Scrub behind teak plantation also supports White-bellied Bush-chat and Buff-banded Bushbird. Black-banded Flycatcher and Orange-banded Thrush also recorded. Elegant Pitta nests there in wet Season.

Getting there

Catch any bemo from Kupang going to Penfui, and ask for Baumata. From the airport turn off (3.5 km from Oesapa) it is only another 5.5 km uphill.

Birdwatching in Timor (Timor Island)

Timor

This 33,600 sq km island is the largest on Nusa Tenggara. Half its resident birds are of Asian origin, the other half of Australian origin.

Kupang

Kupang is the capital of Nusa Tenggara province. Sunrise is at 5 am and sunset at 5 pm.

Getting there

Downtown kupang is 15 km from El Tari airport. Nusa Cenda University is 3 km from the airport and the government offices are located on a hill outside Kupang city centre. The taxi fare is $4 whatever the destination. Drivers receive commission from hotels, so do not believe your driver when he says your planned hotel is full. The harbour for ferries to and from Roti (daily), Ende and Waingapu is at Bolok, 14 km to the south of Kupang. Bemoos meet the ferries; the fare to downtown Kupang is IDR 2,000.

Birdwatching in Poronumbu (Nusa Tenggara)

Poronumbu

This 900-ha forest fragment located close to Waikabubak supports most of sumba’s forest species including all the endemics. The forest covers a low ridge and the lower slopes are heavily disturbed, with maize fields eating into the forest edge.

Getting there

Take the road to Waibanga, northeast of Waikabubak. Just after Dokaka church, 10 km from Waikabubak, take the track on the left to Dokaka village (1 km). continue along the track for a further 3 km to the forest edge. Trails enter the forest and climb the ridge. There are four bemos a day from Waikabubak terminal to Waibanga (IDR 2000 to the Dokaka turning).

Birdwatching in Waikabubak (Nusa Tenggara)

Waikabubak

Waikabubak, the capital town of West Sumba, is for most tourists the base for day trips to see traditional villages and megalithic tombs. The town has a beautiful traditional village on a small hill in its centre.

Getting there

The airport of west Sumba is at Tambulaka, a 1-hr drive to the northwest of the town.

Birdwatching in Manupeu (Nusa Tenggara)

Manupeu

The beautiful, steep-sided Manupeu valley is dominated by the spectacular Matayangu waterfall and supports the highest known densities of Sumba Hornbill. It is an easy day trip by car from Waikabubak. The track to the valley passes through a mosaic of forest and grassland clearings. There is no accommodation in the area. The valley is known locally as a place of evil spirits, and several visitors who have camped in the valley have reported disturbing dreams.

Getting there

No public transport. A 1-day charter from Waikabubak will cost about $45. at Wailawa, 16 km from Waikabubak, turn south along an asphalt side road. The asphalt gives out after 10 km, 500 m before the forest edge. A 4WD can continue along a track for a further 3-4 km to the top of the valley, and a jeep track continues a further 5 km to the edge of the Manuperu valley. From there it is a 3-km walk down a steep trail into the valley bottom.

Birdwatching in Luku Melolo (Nusa Tenggara)

Luku Melolo

A spectacular valley, with steep limestone escarpments protecting 7,800 ha of forest. On the eastern side of the valley a mosaic of forest and open grasslands that survives along the top of the escarpment is a great place to see many of sumba’s endemic birds.

Key species

Peregrine Falcon, Short-toed Eagle, Sumba Hornbill, Citron-crested race of Yellow-crested Cockatoo, Sumba Green Pigeon, Sumba Cicadabird, Sumba Flycatcher, Sumba Brown Flycatcher, Red-headed Myzomela.

Getting there

Melolo village is 62 km (2 hrs) by road east of Waingapu. Buses leave the terminal about every hour (fare IDR 15.000). the turning up to Luku Melolo forest is the first on the right after the bridge in Melolo. Truck-buses are rare, and without your own transport you will have to rely on hitching on one of the infrequent vehicles for the 21 km, uphill drive to the forest.

General information

Bird along the road from km 21 to km 25, with frequent excursions into the forest fragments and to the edge of the escarpment to look over the valley. At the small village of Paberamanera (km 25) a trail leads down to the river.

Birdwatching in Terimbang (Nusa Tenggara)

Terimbang

A beautiful, unspoilt cove on the south coast, with a 1 km band of beach forest between the beach and fields around the village of Terimbang. Forested escarpments rise inland from the villages. The area has yet to be birded properly, but looks to have great potential and may support all Sumba’s endemics. As yet there is no accommodatins; visitors camp on the beach. Fisherman will sell you fish to barbecue. Bring whatever else you need.

Key species

Beach Thick-knees on the beach, Orange-footed Scrub-fowl and Rainbow Lorikeets, and the forest through which the road passes on the way is good for Cinnamon-banded Kingfisher, Citron-crested Cockatoo and Metalic Pigeon.

Getting there

Traveling west from Waingapu on the Waikabubak road, turn left at Praipaha (47 km from Waingapu) on the road to Wahang and Tabundung. After a further 38 km, a turning on the right leads 8 km down to Terimbang. (the turning is in Kalal forest, a good area for Citron-crested Cockatoo). Buses leave the terminal in Waingapu each morning for Wahang, but you will need to walk the 8 km from the turning or wait for a lift on one of the very few vehicles going to Terimbang.

Terimbang and Wangameti are connected by a south coast road. From Wangameti return to Kanangar, then continue down to Manukangga on the south coast, turn west via Lalindi, Tabungdung and Wahang. This journey will take a full day by car or motorbike.

source: Birding Bali. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Mt Wangameti (Nusa Tenggara)

Mt Wangameti

Sumba’s highest mountain supports the largest area of forest (40,000 ha) remaining on Sumba. It catches more rainfall than other areas of Sumba and is covered in evergreen forest, favoured habitat of the Red-naped Fruit-dove. Visitors can stay with the head of Wangameti village and hire a guide to explore the forest or climb the mountain.

Key species

All Sumba’s endemic species (except Sumba Buttonquail) and Red-naped Fruit-dove common. Eclectus and Great-billed Parrots, Sumba Cicadabird, Chestnut-backed Thrush, Tawny Grassbird and Russet-backed Rhinomyias.

Getting there

Wangumeti village is about 65 km (3 hrs) south of Waingapu. From Waingapu drive west past the airport. 10 km from Waingapu take a turning on the right to Tana Rara, a further 49 km. continuing along the road from Tana Rara to Kanangar, after 7 km you reach a rough track to Wangameti on the right. Larondja village, which abuts the forest, is 24 km along this track.

A car charter to Wangameti will cost $45. by public transport ask around for the Ende Manis truck at the terminal in Waingapu in the evening. This truck does a daily run up to the Wangameti area. If you are going by motorbike, be aware that patrol is often not available in Tana Rara or Kanagar, but you can arrange for Ende Manis to drop a jerry can of benzene at Wangameti.

General Information

Visitors can stay with a family in Larondja; they ask for IDR 60,000 a night per person, including three basic meals. The village has a communal toilet block. The forest, which starts across a small river immediately behind the village, is criss-crossed with trails for collecting loba (the bark of a tree used in dyeing). The trek to the top of Wangameti is relatively gentle climb and takes 3-4 hrs. villagers ask IDR 30,000 a day for guiding. The price for half day is the same because they lose a day’s work.

Birdwatching in Luku Melolo (Nusa Tenggara)

Luku Melolo

Key species

Getting there

General information

Birdwatching in Yumbu Mangroves

Yumbu Mangroves

A beautiful band of mangroves, fronted by coral flats, 2 km down a track off the main Waingapu-Melolo Road. A lovely place to look for terns, Grey-tailed Tattler, and there’s a possibility of Great-billed Heron.

Getting there

From Waingapu take the road easr to Melolo. If traveling by bus ask for Jambatan Yumba and get off 3-4 km after passing through Watumbaka, just after a bridge (close to km post 17)

General information

Follow a track on the left for 1.2 km to the back of the mangroves. The dry grasslands on either side of the track are where Sumba Button-quail has been seen. The track leads to a house, where there is a stream running through the mangroves. Wade along the stream to get to the coral flats.

Birdwatching in Pripahamandas

Pripahamandas (Kilometer Dua Belas)

The steep-sided forest valley, the water catchment for Waingapu, offers a pleasant introduction to forest birding. Citron-crested race of Yellow-crested Cockatoo still occurs, Great-billed Parrot, Rainbow Lorikeet and Green Imperial Pigeon are all common.

Getting there

From Waingapu take any bus in the direction of Waikabubak and get off at km 12 (you will have to pay the full Waikabuhak fare); alternatively hitch a ride or charter a vehicle from your hotel.

General Information

From km 12 it is a 50-m walk to the top of the limestone escarpments and a lovely view into the valley. To descend into the valley bottom, there is a rough trail at km 11. it is possible then to walk up the river and return via another trail, which joins the road at km 15; however on this trail you have to climb a short rock face.

Birdwatching in Waingapu Bay

Waingapu Bay

A few minutes walk from Waingapu town, the mud-flats and sandbars of waingapu bay attract good numbers of shorebirds during the migration months of Mar-may and late Jul-Oct. the variety of species is variable; careful scanning of the high water roost on a sandbar at the eastern end is sometimes rewarded with scarcer shorebird species.

Key species

Far Eastern Curlew, Greater Sand-plover, Great Knot, Terek Sandpiper, Rufous-necked stint, Broad-billed Sandpiper has also been recorded.

Getting there

Opposite the police booth to left of the Merlin hotel, take a track down the side of the mosque. Turn left at the asphalt road and walk for 400 m as far as sharp right bend. Continue straight on along a dirt track for 100 m to a second asphalt road. Turn right and continue for 200 m to a sharp right-hand bend. Take a small path on the left across disused shrimp ponds to the beach.

Birdwatching in Sumba

Sumba
The island of Sumba is another birder’s favourite with eight endemics-including a hornbill, fruit-dove and button-quail. However, it is also popular because of its amazing culture and spectacular landscape, so is a good destination for birders and non-birders.

Birdwatching in Egon-Illimudu

Egon-Illimudu
A volcanic peak with venting fumaroles approximately 25 km east of Maumere. The site’s main interest is a rare example of pristine, moist eucalyptus woodland. Almost nothing is known about the birds of this habitat but it looks exciting.

Getting there
Probably best to charter a car, but also possible by public transport if you’re willing to walk. Drive out past the dive clubs on the road east to Larantuka. Take the turning south between Km Posts 23 and 24 (from Maumere). After 5 km the asphalt turns to a dirt track and enters eucalyptus savannah and after another 2-3 km you reach pristine eucalyptus forest. The track continues upwards through forest and clearings for a further 8 km to the village of Bau Krengut, where there are great views of Mt Egon and the south coast.

Birdwatching in Pulau Besar

Around Maumere
Pulau besar
This rugged, 3,000 ha island is by far the largest in Maumere Bay; it is about 25 km offshore (45 min by speedboat from Maumere or the dive clubs). The vegetation of coastal areas is cultivation and secondary growth, with patches of beach forest and mangroves. The interior is covered by semi-deciduous forest easily accessible along numerous trails that enter from coastal settlements.

Key species
Bonelli’s eagle, Flores Green Pigeon and good range of forest and open country birds, Osprey, Brahminy Kite and White-bellied Sea-eagle around the coast.

Getting there
To reach the island, hire a boat from Sea World or Sao Wisata, or from the fishermen along the coast. The dive clubs charge well over $100 (although you may be able to get a dive group to drop you off). The fisherman charge around $75, but be careful of the sea worthiness of their boats.

General information
Even in the dry season (Apr-Oct) the seas can be choppy. You can stay overnight with the village head on the island, but bring your own food. The island is a nature reserve so you will need a permit, which you get from PHPA in Maumere,, cost IDR 25,000.

Birdwatching in Maumere

Maumere, the principal town of East Flores, is best known for the spectacular diving and snorkeling to be found around the islands in Maumere Bay. The reefs were damaged by the 1993 earthquake and tidal wave but are now recovering well. For the birder there are two recommended day trips: to Pulau Besar, out in the bay, and Egon-Illimudu, a right on the Trans-Flores highway so there are frequent bus service from east and west. There are daily air connections with Ujung Pandang, Kupang, Bima and Bali, and connections to Surabaya and Jakarta. Pelni’s Binaiya stops in Maumere four times a month.

Birdwatching in Mausambi

Mausambi
A pristine area of monsoon forest extending from the hills down to the sea where there is one of the last remaining bands of beach forest on Flores. Not yet really explored by birders, but flores Crow has been seen here and there are plenty of lorikeets and pigeons.

Getting there
Mausambi is located 7 km west of Marole on the coast due north of Kelimutu. The best way to visit this site is to charter a car and drop in here on the way from Maumere-Keli Mutu. By public transport bus-trucks leave from Ende, Detusoko (12 km before Keli Mutu) or Maumere 6-7 am daily; 3 hrs, IDR 18,000 from Maumere. The buses return to their hometowns in the afternoon.

Birdwatching in Ende

Ende
Ende is the largest town on Flores, situated on the south coast. After Maumere, it is the major transportation hub, and there is a port on either side of the small peninsula on which it is situated. The airport is near the town, and it is a 50 m walk from the terminal to the main road, from where you can get a bus or bemo into town.

Transport
By bus Buses to Bajawa, Moni and Maumere are frequent, reliable, cheap and crowded. Going west (Labuhanbajo, Ruteng) the buses leave from Terminal Ndao, 2 km out of town on the road to Bajawa. For eastern destinations (maumere) buses leave from Wolowono, 5 km from downtown. Regular bemos run between the town and terminals.

By sea the ferry leaves from Kupang every Saturday afternoon (16 hrs, overnight, $6-8). Departures and the thicket office are at Pelabuhan Ipi. Tickets can be purchased one day ahead of departure.

Pelni’s Binaiya stops in at Ende twice a month on its route between Waingapu (Sumba) and Kupang, and twice monthly between Kupang to Waingapu. The Pelni office is near the old port, Pelabuhan Ende, but the ships leave from the new port, Pelabuhan Ipi.

Moni and Keli Mutu
Most people go to Keli Mutu just to see the coloured lakes, but the walk back down from the lakes towards Moni village offers some good mountain birding including the “Flores Nightingale”.

Key species
Grey Goshawk, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Changeable Hawk-eagle, Green Junglefowl, Red-backed Buttonquail, Dark-backed Imperial Pigeon, Brown-capped Woodpecker, Snowy-browed and little Pied Flycatchers, Black-naped Monarch, Common Golden Whistler, Helmeted Friarbird, Mountain White-eye. Check the vaccinium scrub at the top for Brown quail, Blood-breasted Flowerpecker and Scaly-crowned Honeyeater.

Getting there
By bus Moni is about 7 hrs from Bajawa via Ende (2 hrs, 53 km from Ende) and 3,5 hrs (83 km) from Maumere. In Moni take a vehicle to the summit, eg the daily, pre-dawn truck laid on for tourists, $1.5; for 5-6 people, charter a jeep from Kelimutu Restaurant, $14 round trip; then walk back down (3 hrs).

General information
There is easy access to habitats in the 700-1,600 m altitude range: casuarinas and mountain forest near the summit, other habitats lower down. However, take great care around the lake and do not go alone: the ground is very unstable off the path. A tourist disappeared in 1995.

Bajawa and Ruing : easy to birdwatching

Bajawa
A lovely hill town set in splendid scenery and popular tourist stopover on the Trans-Flores Highway. The birding is better at other sites, but the fascinating traditional villages of Bene and Luba, 12 km south of Bajawa, are well worth the diversion. The road down to these villages has good, open country birding.

Ruing
A small coastal town and delightful hang-out, due north of Bajawa. Best known for the excellent snorkeling on reefs around a group of islands just offshore in the bay and an immense fruit-bat colony in the mangroves surrounding one of the islands. For birders the main attraction is Great-billed Heron, which is easy to find along the shore. The dry monsoon forest on the hills immediately behind the town, as yet unexplored, is definitely worth checking out.

Getting there
There are 3-4 buses a day from Bajawa to Riung. The journey takes about 3 hrs and cost IDR 12,000.

General information
The villagers have got themselves organized into a cooperative, himpunan pramuwisata Indonesia, which provides guides and manages trips out to the reefs. Expect to pay $7-10 for guide and $25 for boat charter.
One or two small trading boats leave from Riung each week for Ujung Pandang via Tanahjampea (which has an endemic flycatcher). An adeventurous (and cheap) way to link Nusa Tenggara and Sulawesi itineraries.

Kisol: Birdwatching in Lowland Forest

An easy base for lowland forest birding. Kisol is a small village, 68 km from Ruteng, 9 km east of Mborong, on the road to Bajawa near the south coast. At Nangarawa, on the coast south of Kisol, there are patches of lowland forest and scrub; there is also a small estuary with mangroves, 10 km along a bad road passable to 4WD vehicles. Mt Poco Ndeki (Pacandeki) is a forested mountain south of Kisol, 45 min on foot.

Key species

Most lowland species including Bonelli’s Eagle, Orange-footed Scrubfowl, Green Junglefowl, Green Imperial Pigeon, Flores Green Pigeon, Great-billed Parrot, Red-cheeked Parrot, Moluccan and Wallce’s Scopsowls, White-rumped Kingfisher, Elegant Pitta, Chestnut-capped Thrush, Asian Paradise-flycatcher, Black-naped and Spectacled Monarchs, Flame-breasted Sunbird, Yellow-spectacled White-eye, Thick-billed Darkeye, Flores crow. In open country or on the south coast: Wooly-necked Stork, Changeable Hwak-eagle, Malaysian Plover, Beach Thick-knee, Lesser Whistling-duck.

Getting there

Take any Bajawa bus and get off at Kisol ($2). Alternatively charter a car for the 2-hr drive ($30).

Pong Toda : A slice experience bird-watch in open grass and shrub lands

A pleasant 1,,5-day walk into a beautiful ravine forested with old casuarinas trees on the slopes of Mt Golo Dukol. The walk passes across open grass and shrub lands where you should see open-country birds such as Brown Quail, Golden-headed Cisticola, Red Avadavat and Five-coloured and Pale-headed Munias.

Getting there

Charter a car or a bemo to take you the 2 km from Ruteng to Leda, where the asphalt road turns to a dirt track. Walk west along this to the susteran (nunnery). Looking west you will see the ravine and the footpath following the contour of the hill. Continue up the road for 1.5 km, cross a stream bed and walk across the grassy area until you reach a small footpath leading up to the left (south). This brings you along a gentle contour into the west side of the ravine. After about 1 km the path forks. Take the left-hand fork (which is actually a water system trail and pipeline), which leads into the casuarinas forest. Here you should find, among other species, Dark-backed imperial Pigeon, Great-billed Parrot, White-rumped Kingfisher, Little Minivet, Scaly-crowned Honeyeater and mixed bird flocks.

Lake Rana Mese: Birdwatching in Ex-crater

Rana Mese, a small crater lake at 1,200 m located 22 km west of Ruteng on the Trans-Flores highway, supports waterbirds such as Sunda Teal, Pacific Black Duck and Little Pied Cormorant not found elsewhere in the area. The surrounding forest is good for Ruddy Cuckoo-dove, Sumba Cicadabird,, Russet-Capped Tesia, Russet-backed Rhinomyias and other forest birds.

Getting there

Take any public bus to Mborong from the terminal in Ruteng (IDR 7,500) and get off at the park sign at Km Post 22. the lake is just a short walk down a stepped trail. Alternatively, take a bemo to Mano (IDR 2,000) and walk the 6 km to Rana Mese. Flag down a vehicle to return to Ruteng.

General information

To get into the forest, walk 100 m back along the road from the site sign board towards Ruteng and follow the small, unmarked footpath on the right towards the lake. The trail passes through good forest with a short, steep section leading down to the northern shore, which is very swampy.

Mt Ranaka: Montana Birdwatching

Mt Ranaka

In 1987, this 2,140 m high mountain erupted, causing the telecommunications station to be relocated, but the 9 km access road is still open, providing visitors with the opportunity to walk or drive right up into the elfin forest that covers the higher slopes. This is a good place for pigeons and chestnut-capped Thrush.

Getting there

This is the most accessible montane cloud forest in Flores. The turning is at Robo, at km Post 9 along the road from Ruteng to Bajawa. The easiest way to get there is to charter a bemo from Ruteng to the top of Ranaka, $4 for a drop, $6 if it waits an hour and brings you back. Alternatively catch a public bus or bemo to Robo (IDR 25,000) and make the strenuous, 9 km (2 hr) climb.

Ruteng: Much Place For Birdwatching

Around Ruteng : much place for birdwatching

Key species

All the montane species, in particular Dark backed Imperial Pigeon, Flores Scopsowl (a speciment recently collected near lake Rana Mese), Russet-capped Tesia, Timor Leaf-warbler, Yellow-breasted Warbler, Flyeater, Brown-capped Fantail, Bare-throated Whistler, Mountain White-eye, Yellow-browe Dark-eye, Sacaly-crowned Honeyeater.

Golo Lusang

7 km south of Ruteng on the road to Iteng, the 1,650 m pass between Mt Lika and Mt Watu Ndao is a fabulous place for an early morning symphony of Bare-throated Whistlers and views to the south coast and even across to Sumba.

Getting there

For an early start arrange a charter from your hotel the night before (IDR 25,000); at other times take a bemo from the bus station in the direction of Ponggeok or Iteng (IDR 3,000) and ask to be dropped off at the pass. To return to Ruteng flag down a passing bemos or truck (IDR 3,000).

General Information

The forest on the south of the pass is less disturbed and to explore it simply wander down the road. Several wood-cutters’ trails give access to the forest. An interesting trail enters to the southeast at Ulu Wae Ces, 1 km back down from the pass in the direction of Ruteng. The trail climbs upwards through a tunnel of shrubs and after 1 km enters secondary scrub and climbs steeply for a further 1 km to another pass. There is good forest over this pass and you reach a small meadow after another 1 km.

Puarldo Telkom Station : Found Endemic Bird

Puarldo Telkom Station

At the top of the pass between Labuhanbajo and the Lembang plains, this is the site for Flores Monarch and other endemic birds of the mid-altitude forests. A 300-m road leads off the main higway to the telegraph station, which is surrounded by forest. Simply bird along the road.

Getting there

The turning for the telegraph station is between km posts 33 and 34 if you are coming from Labuhanbajo, or 96 km from the direction of Ruteng. Take any bus running the Labuanbajo-Ruteng route and get off at the turning (but expect to pay the fare to the bus’s destination).

For the return trip, all buses are likely to be packed to the gunnels, so you will probably have to hitch a lift on a passing truck. It is polite to give the driver some uang rokok (cigarette money) for the ride.

Potawangka: Exiciting Place for Birdwatching in Flores

Potawangka

an area of pristine lowland forest, which exciteing potential, easily accessible via the road which leads through to the village of Potawangka. Only recently discovered and no bird lists yet, the area has to be good and the villagers know Wallce’s hanging-parrot.

Getting there

Take any bemo in the direction of ruteng and get off at a road junction on the left between km posts 10 and 11 from labuhanbajo. The side road leads 12 km to Potawangka village. After 1,5 km the road enters scrub and after a further 1 km you are into forest. Then it’s forest all the way as the road climbs gently upwards to Potawangka.

Lake Dolat: Wetland Birdwatching

Around Labuhanbajo

A marshly lake and buffalo wallow (approximately 6 km to the south of Labuhanbajo) attracts migratory waterfowl in the northern winter (oct-Mar). at the height of the dry season (Jul-Sep) egrets and whistling ducks from surrounding areas concentrate at this rare area of fresh water.

Getting there

Few people in Labuhanbajo know where Lake Dolat is; an added confusion is that villagers along the way seem to know several areas as “Dolat”. To be sure of getting there, take a guide from the National Park office. Alo Sahu knows the area and is a keen birder, but for 3 weeks every month he is based on Komodo.

Finding your own way there is a nice adventure and you will see plenty of open country birds Black-winged Kites, Rainbow Bee-eaters, Singing Bush-larks and the like, along the way.

There are two ways of getting there. One is to charter a boat to take you down the coast to Nonganipa (about 30 min/$20 charter) and then walk inland asking along the way for Dolat. The locals do not consider it to be a lake, so your best bet is to ask for Rawa (swamp) Dolat or lahan basah (wetland) Dolat. The other option is to approach it by land. Take any bemos in the direction of Ruteng and ask to be dropped at Cabang (branch0 ke kampong Nanganai, which is 5 km out of town.

There’s chicken farm on the right at the right place. Take the trail behind this farm over a small rise, then down through a bamboo grove to an area of paddies. Walk direcly across the paddies for about 2 km until you come to a river with a village on the opposite bank. Wade the river then go through the village and carry on for about 3 km, asking at every opportunity for directins. It is best to head off in the early morning, take lunch and plenty of water, and approach it as a pleasant stroll which with luck will arrive at Lake Dolat.

Labuhanbajo: Place for savana birdwatchers

Labuhanbajo

The little coastal town of Labuhanbajo is the main entry point to Flores for those traveling from Komodo or islands to the west.

Getting there

Daily ferries from Sape, Sumbawa, which stop at Komodo, arrive in the late afternoon. Hotel/losmen representatives meet the ferry, so simply walk to the Losmen of your choice or the whisked to the oout-of-town seaside hotels by boat. If you arrive by bus from Ruteng, you can be dropped where you want.

The Pelni ships Binaiya, Tatamilau and tilongkabila each stop in at Labuhanbao a total of 4 times each month on their respective 2-week routes.

The airport is a couple of kilometers out of town, $4 charter, 80 cent for a collective minibus. At present there are 6 flights a week to Labuhanbajo on the Kupang to Bima route; however the service is unreliable and often overbooked. Do not rely on getting a flight out: an “Ok” ticket booked outside Labuhanbajo has no meaning.

Accommodation/dining

Most places are geared to the low end of the budget travel market and are situated along the shore, a short walk from the harbour, though there are a few better quality hotels.

Transport

Ferry office at the harbour at the north end of Jl Soekarno, Impossible to miss.Bus Local buses run up and down the main street. Your losmen will call one for you. Buses to Ruteng run 3 times daily ($4, 4-5 hrs0. Charter minibus to Ruteng, $50-75, night buses direct to Ende, $7, 15 hrs. Long-distance bus several bus companies offer service to and from destinations to the west.

General information

Tourist Office Jl eltari

PHPA office Komodo National Park information centre, Labuhanbajo, Flores Barat, 86554 Labuhanbajo

Post Office Jl Soekarno

Foreign exchange is not available in Labuhanbajo. Remember to stock up on malaria tablets as they are essential in this region; it is also advisable to carry a net.

Trans-Flores Highway: Birdwatching way

The trans-flores highway winds some 700 km through the scenic mountains of the island,, from Labuhanbajo in the west, to Larantuka on the island’s eastern tip. Most of the road is paved, and it passes through all 5 of Flores’s district capitals.

Labuhanbajo-Ruteng (126 km) 4 hrs

Ruteng-Bajawa (130 km) 4 hrs

Bajawa-Ende (126 km) 4 hrs

Ende-Moni (Keli Mutu) (52 km) 1,5 hrs

Moni-Maumere (96 km) 3 hrs

Maumere-Larantuka (137 km) 4 hrs

Transport

Public buses-cheap, reliable, and crowded-shuttle continuously back and forth along the highway. Most of the buses run during the day, although there area a few night expresses. No single bus makes the entire run; usually they are based in one district capital and just run to the next and back.

Chartering your own vehicle costs $40-60/day but allows you plenty of flexibility-essential for birding! Side-trips depend on the type of vehicle and the state of the roads. Check the state of the vehicle very carefully; many bemos are not fit for the out-of-town roads, nor are all the drivers competent. Remember that map distances often have little relevance to travel time.

Birdwatching in Nusa Tenggara: Komodo National Park

Komodo

Komodo is a beautiful island that offers great birding, as well as a chance to see the famous komodo “dragons”.

Komodo National Park

The komodo National Park, world famous as the home of the world’s largest lizard, covers the 335 km by 15 km Komodo island and its slightly smaller neighbour, Rinca, as well as many smaller islands in between. The dry, lontar palm-studied landscapes set in sparkling blue seas create a delightful birdwatching setting. As well as Komodo Dragons and birds, there are fruit-bat roost in the mangroves and some good snorkeling.

Key species

Key species one of the last strongholds of yellow-crested Cockatoo; Orange-footed Scrubfowl are easy to see. Other notable species are ; Great-billed Heron, Green Junglefowl, Beach Thick-knee, Green and Pied Imperial Pigeon, Nicobar Pigeon, Wallacean Cuckoo-shrike.

Other wildlife

Komodo dragons, fruit bats in the mangroves at Pulau Kalong, superb corals at Pantai Merah. Feral horses, buffalo, and wild boar. Flying Fox roost, Green turtles, sharks and dolphins in surrounding seas.

Getting there

Reach Komodo by daily ferry from either Sape on Sumbawa (departs 8.00 am, 6 hrs, $5) or Labuhanbajo on Flores (departs 8.00 am, 4 hrs, $3). Transfer from ferry to shore by small boat ($2). You can also charter a boat from aither of these ports: the longer and more dangerous trip from sape cost $175-350 depending on the type and condition of the boat: from Labuhanbajo aim to pay $50-100.

Komodo’s sister island, Rinca (which also has “dragons”), is reached by chartered boat from Labuhanbajo. Many hotels and travel agencies offer a day-trip pckage for $35 on a small fishing boat that can carry 8-10 people. The crossing takes 2 hrs.

Accommodation/dining

On Komodo the National Park Headquarters at Loh Liang is the only accommodation on the island. Although it has 80 beds in shared cabins, in the peak season (June-August) it is often overcrowded and you may have to sleep on the floor. A canteen serves simple Indonesia meals and drinks.

A Rinca the National Park has similar accommodation (8 rms only) and a canteen at Loh Bay.

General Information

The best time to visit is from Mar-May and Sep-Dec. the park entrance fee is IDR 4,000. guides are compulsory for excusions. From Loh Liang to Banu Nggulung the cost is IDR 5,000. expect to pay $8-12 for larger trips.

Birdwatching in Nusa Tenggara: Lombok Island

Birdwatching in Nusa Tenggara

Lombok

A great place for relaxing, enjoying the beaches and visiting temples and villages Lombok has become Indonesia’s new “in” tourist destination. Apart from on the slopes of Mt Rinjani, little natural vegetation remains and the island’s bird fauna is very impoverished compared to that of its neighbours. There is good trekking and pleasant mountain birding in Rinjani National Park and this is well covered in all guides to the island.

Sapit

On the mountain’s eastern slopes, this pleasant area of forest (some degraded) mixed with shifting agriculture, is the island’s only birding area.

Key species

Chinese Goshawk, Black-naped Fruit-dove, White-shouldered Triller, Scaly-crowned Honeyeater, Lesser Shortwing, Mountain Leaaf-warbler, Short-tailed Starling.

General information

From Sapit a road leads uphill for 7 km to the start of the Air Panas (“hot spring”) trail. The nicest thing to do is to charter a vehicle up ($3-6) and walk back, descending through degraded forest after 1-2 km. the sacred hot springs at air panas are surrounded by good primary forest through which there is a level trail.

Banyuwedang

Located 5 km west of Labuhan Lalang on the north coast road, this is a popular Hindu shrine and hot spring located 1 km down a side road. Trails lead out beyond the shrine to the coast, crossing dry river beds and passing through scrub. It is one of the best places to see Island Collared Dove, Small Minivet, Black-winged Starling and Java Sparrow.

Blimbing Sari to Labuhan Lalang Trek

Blimbing Sari to Labuhan lalang Trek

This rigorous, 7-8 hr trek can be arranged with the park guides. An early morning bemo charter takes you round to the microwave station on Mt Klatakan, near blimbing Sari village, 5 km inland from Melaya on the Denpasar road. This is a good place to see hill Myna. Rufous-bellied and black eagles and Chestnut-headed Bee-eater. The trail crosses two ridges (610 and 550 m) and then drops down a valley to labuhan lalang. Good chance of Wreathed Hornbill. A guide is essential and they ask $25 for this excursion.