Winding up and over the pass, we reach the area known as Bedugul, and a few hundred metres beyond the summit is the colourful fruit and flower market at Candikuning. A little further down the hill, on the left just before the lakeside, is a sign announcing Lila Graha.
Make the most of the two hours’ or so daylight remaining with a short excursion to the lake. Opposite the lila Graha is the entrance to the Ashram Guest House. Cut through the Ashram’s garden to the Balinese gate and continue by the lakeside, where a wonderful array of painted lady butterflies sun themselves on the paved pathway. The trail leads up into the tall trees and comes out in the gardens of the hotel bedugul.
This little pocket of forest is full of birds, and is probably the best place anywhere to pick up the elusive lesser Shortwing, whose tantalisting crescendo is one of the most prevalent jungle sounds. At each bend in the trail, carefully check the way ahead. Here you will easily spot all three babblers-horsfield’s, the endemic Crescent-chested and Chesnut-backed Scimitar-babbler-and such little beauties as Yellow-bellied and Mountain Leaf-warblers, Mountain Tailorbird, Grey-headed Flycatcher, and all three White-eyes: Oriental, Mountain and Java Grey-throated, the latter very common.
Early next morning visit the Botanical gardens up the small road leading from the traffic island next to the market-place. Dawn is good for thrushes-Sunda and Orange-headed at the edge of the lawn, 200 m into the grounds, and scaly Thrush by the temple and Sulphur fissure at the topmost point. Loads of Grey-cheeked Green Pigeons and Short-tailed Starlings, as well as Ashy Drongo, Babblers, Honeyeaters and Common Golden Whistlers, will keep you busy until well into the morning.
source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore