Birdwatching in Labi-labi, Halmahera (Maluku)

Labi-labi
This village is located on the east side of Kao Bay, and is the site of the most easily accessible display area of Wallace’s standardwing, which was filmed by the BBC for “Attenborough in Paradise” in 1995. the tree is in an area of limestone forest a 4-km trek from the village. There is a shelter in the forest and the villagers are organized with tarpaulin and cooking equipment to run a pleasant jungle camp.

Getting there

There is no public transport to this site and you will need Anu to take you there. Unfortunately the trip is currently expensive-$750 per group-because there are only two speedboats to hire for the 2-hr crossing. Anu has an arrangement with the village head that every visiting bird group will make a donation (included in the price) to pay for guarding the display area. If you get to Labi-labi independently, please support this system. The speedboats leave either from Kao or Toebelo.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Tanah Batu Putih, Halmahera (Maluku)

Halmahera

Most birders satisfy themselves with birding around Kali Batu Putih and Sidangoli mangroves, where virtually all the 24 speciees endemic to Norrth Maluku can be found but, time and budget permitting, a 4-5 day trip to the standarwing lek at Labi-labi and Moluccan Scrubfowl nestground at Galela is recommended.

Tanah Batu Putih

This is an area of logged and disturbed forest in the hills leading oout of Sidangoli, where most of Halmaheera’s speciality species can be seen during a 3-4 day visit. A basic birwatchers’ losmen is run by Demianus Bagali, usually known as Anu.

Key species

Most species endemic to North maluku including: Wallace’s Standarwing, Paradise Crow, Ivory-breasted Pitta, Dusky Scrubfowl, Moluccan Owlet-nightjar, Gurney’s Eagle, Halmahera Cuckoo-shrike. Invisible Rail was re-discovered by Anu in the nearby Akelolo sago swamp.

Accommodation

Anu’s losmen burnt down in 1995. he is rebuilding it on the left of the road by the start of the logging trail $8 per night; $6 extra for three basic meals. Anu charges $12 per day for guiding.

Getting there

From the ferry terminal at Sidangoli take a bemo (IDR 9,000) or becak (IDR 2,000) to Anu’s brother shop, Toko mandiri, in Desa Domato, 1 km away. He will tell you where Anu is and run you up to Tanah Batu Putih for $4.50.

General information

Anu known the best sites to see each of the key species and they are also noted in the birder’s logbook. There are three main trails; the first climbs a hill of good forest across the stream in the valley to the right of Anu’s losmen and is the place to see Wallace’s Standardwing Ivory breasted Pitta and Nicobar Pigeon. To the left of the main road, and old logging trail leading up the valley for several km is the most productive birding area. A summit, a 2-km wwalk up the main road, provides an excellent vantage point to watch for raptors at midday.

In Sidangoli, the Akelolo sago swamp, where invisible rail has recently been seen, should not be missed. The nicest wway to get there is to hire a longboat from Sidangoli ($10-15) for the journey through the mangroves to the village of Akelolo. Good chance of Beach Kingfisher and plenty of Imperial Pigeons. Alternatively, the swamp can be reached on foot. It is a hot, 2-km walk along a trail on the right of the main road, 1 km oout of Siddangoli. Exploring the swamp requires wading up to your knees in mud-and the rail only calls after heavy rrain! Yoou will need Anu to show you the beest area; do not forget to ask him to show you the Great-billed Heron nest tree.

Birdwatching in Lake Tolire Besar, Ternate (Maluku)

Ternate

The tiny island of Ternate, less than 10 km in diameter, and its similar sized neighboour, Tidorre, were once the world’s only source of clovees and in the past saaw bloody conflicts between the Portuguese, Spanish, British and Dutch for control of the lucrative spice trade. Today Ternate, with a population of 50,000, is the second larggeest city in Maluku and, for birders, the hopping off place for Halmahera.

Around ternate

Lake Tolire Besar

This stunning, emerald, crater lake surrounded by 50 m high cliffs is a wonderful birding hang-out. Sit on the high rim and scan the trees fringing the lake for White-Cockatoo and Blue-capped Fruit-dove and the forested slopes of the Gamalama volcano for Gourney’s Eagle. Watch Great-billed Parrots flying across and walk the trail round the crater rim looking for dusky Scrubfowl, friarbirds and munias.

Great-billed Parrots
www.avianweb.com

Getting there

The lake is almost halfway round the island from Ternate town and it is best to charter a bemo to get to it. From the road, it is a 15-min wwalk up throough scrubby forest to the crater edge.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatcing in Manusela National Park (Maluku)

Manusela National Park The rugged Manusela National Park on Seram vies with Halmahera as Maluku’s premier birding destination on accaount of its many endemic species and unspoilt wilderness. Expedition-style trekking is required to enter the park, and going is tough.

Key species

Moluccan Red Lories
www.birdbaby.com

Southern Cassowary, Blue-eared, Purple-naped and Moluccan Red Lories, Salmon-crested Cockatoo, Lazuli Kingfisher, Pale Cicadabird, Moluccan Thrush, Streak-breasted Fantail, Bicoloured Honeyeater, Seram Friarbird, Long-crested Myna, Black-naped Oriole.

Getting there
Enter the National Park either from Mosso on the south coast or Wahai on the north coast. The trail from Mosso is unbelieveably steep so it is best to start at Wahai.

For Wahai, there are a number of bus companies that leave from Ambon to Saka, on Seram’s north coast. One is Anugrah, which leaves at 6.00 am from Jl Mesjid Jaya Al Fatah by the Al Fatah Mosque. Buy your tickets the day before from the offices in this street. Other buses leave from the Batuh Merah end of Mardeka bus terminal. The journey takes 8 hrs, and costs IDR 100,000 including ferry. Public speedboats for the 2-hour journey along the coast from saka to Wahai meet the buses; they arrive in Wahai between 5 and 6 pm (IDR 40,000).

If you wish to go to Mosso, the best way is to cross to Amahai on Seram from the small port of Telehu in northeast Ambon, then either charter a speedboat ($50, 8-10 people, 2 hrs) or catch the public ferry, lae-lae: departures at 8.00 am and 1.00 pm ($7.2 hrs) Amahai to Mosso involves first a 4-hr bus ride to district town of Tehoru (IDR 30,000), then either a 20-min chartered speedboat ride to Mosso ($25) or a 1-hr pok-pok (unsafe and wet motorized prau) journey.

Accommodation
In Mosso stay with the kepala desa (village head) in Wahai,, at Losmen Sinar Indah, $7, or $9 with meals. It is also possible to stay at the National Park Centre, but take your own food.

General information
The National Park Centre at Sasa Ratu is about 10 km from Wahai on the road to Pasahari. There are regular buses from Wahai to Pasahari (IDR 20,000-25,000). There is good roadside birding along the roa to Pasahari, which passes through forest for 10 km. walk, or charter a bemo for IDR 40,000/hr.

Ask the park staff to guide you along the trail to the nipa and mangrove swamps, a walk to the nipa and mangrove swamps, a walk of 2 km north of the HQ; the guide will cost $5. at the harbour in Wahai, speed boats can be hired to take you along the coast to the same mangroves; $30-40 for half a day.

To go trekking in Manusela, report to Pak Edi at the National Park or (better) at his home in Wahai with your permits, which you must get in Ambon City before departing, to arrange your trek. Also report in at the police station in Wahai. You need to take cooking equipment, food and, depending on your route, caming gear; this can be bought in Wahai, Strong, worn-in walking boots are essential. Make sure also that you take a compass and rain gear. Expect to pay $7-10 per day for your guide, $5 per day per porter plus their food and cigarettes.

For routes see map. Approximate walking times between villages or over-night camps, not counting birding stops are:
Wahai to Wasa; 6-7 hrs, gentle up-hill walk, stay in village.
Wasa to Roho; 5-6 hrs, uphill walk, stay in village.
Roho to Wasa Mata; 3 hrs, steady uphill, stay in shelter.
Wasa Mata to Kanieh; 4-5 hrs, over ridge, stay in village. (Roho to Kanikeh can be done in a day-it depends on how much time you want to spend birding).
Kanikeh to Selumena; 7 hrs. initial 1.5-hr climb out of Kanikeh valley then a flat walk to Selumena, largely following river. Stay in village.
Selumena to Manusela; 3-4 hrs, undulating and muddy with river crossings, stay in village.
Manusela to Hatumete (south coast); a hell walk which can be done in 8 hrs, but more likely 12. leave Manusela at first light and make the 1,200 m ascent to the summit as quickly as possible (3-3.5 hrs). the almost 2,000 m descent is 5-6 hrs solid walking. Be warned: the trail is dangerous-steep and slippery-in places. Stay in Sinar Hari, a small cluster of houses with spectacular views 2 hrs before Hatumete or Mosso.
Kobipoto to Solalama; 7 hrs, downhill, forest camp.
Solalama to Sola; 7 hrs, flattish but swampy, stay in village.
Sola to Wahai; a full day’s walk on a track.

If you plan to climb towards Mt Binaya from Kanikeh, you should make a small offering before you go. The adapt (customary) law of the area embraced the sudden arrival of hundreds of western Operation Raleigh ventures with the interpretation that they were returning to the homes of the ancestors and your guides will be fearful if you ascend the mountain without first making an offering to your own ancestors.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in around Ambon City (Maluku)

Sirimau
Just 6 km from town the 550 m Sirimau hill is tipped with a 1-ha patch of rain forest surrounding a sacred urn and stone stools, where once the Raja of Soya held meetings. The area is a tourist park, and the forest is a 15-min walk from the entrance gate at the end of the Soya road. two trails wind through the forest.

Key Species

Slender-billed Cuckoo-dove
www.camacdonald.com

White-eyed Imperial Pigeon, Slender-billed Cuckoo-dove, Claret-breasted Fruit-dove, Common Paradise-kingfisher, Golden Bulbul, Island and Slaty Monarchs, Ashy Flowerpecker and Ambon Yellow White-eye.
Getting there
take an orange bemo signed "Soya" from Mardeka bus station to the end of the line (IDR 2,000).


Passo BayAn easily accessible area of mangroves and mud-flats at the eastern end of Ambon Bay. At low tide good for egrets, cormorants, terns and migrant waders.
Getting there
From Mardeka bus station, take the red minibus to Hunut. Ask to get off 200 m after Taman Passo.


Hila
The forested hills behind Hila,, on the north coast of Ambon, are full of parrots. This is the best birding site on Ambon and exploring it is a morning or full-day excursion.
Key Species
Gurney's Eagle, Lazuli Kingfisher, Claret-breasted Fruit-dove, Long-tailed Mountain-pigeon, Salmon-crested Cockatoo, Red Lory, Eclectus and Great-billed Parrots, Ambon Yellow White-eye.
Getting there
Hila is 42 km from Ambon City, where there are regular buses from Batu Merah bus station. The journey takes 70 min, cost IDR 8,000.
General Information
The trail starts just before a bridge, 50 m to the east of Manusela Beach Hotel. Almost immediately the trail forks. Take the right-hand track and climb steeply for about 1 hr through clove plantation to a viewpoint overlooking a valley; continue on upwards for another hour to a field. Skirt round the bottom of this and continue on until a second field, which offers a spectacular view of the valley and is an excellent raptor and parrot-watching spot.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Maluku

Maluku
Ambon City
Ambon city (95 sq km) is the capital of Maluku province and the starting point for trips to Seram and Banda. the wet season falls between May and August.

Getting there
Pattimura Airport is on Ambon island's Hitu Peninsula, across the bay from Ambon city-37 km and 45 mins by road. A vehicle and passenger ferry runs every few minutes between Poka and Galala, where the bay narrows, which cuts the travelling distance in half. the airport taxis charge $9 for the trip. You can get to town more cheapy by taking public transport from the roadside in front of the airport to the ferry terminal at Poka. From Galala, the ferry terminal on the other side of the bay, shared taxis whisk passengers the remaining 6 km into town.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Tamoko (Sulawesi)

Tamoko
Take the bus from Tahunan to Tamoko (5 hrs, IDR 15,000 ). There are no losmen in Tamoko, so report to the kepala Desa (village head) and ask him to find you somewhere to stay. From the market in Tamoko take another bus to Kentuhang (1 hr; IDR 3,000). Get off at the end of the road, where it branches into two unsurfaced tracks that lead up to the crater rim. Take either track and climb steeply. After 2-3 hrs of secondary scrub the tracks enter forest. Red-and-Blue Lory and Caerulean Paradise-flycatcher have not been seen here yet, but Sangihe Hanging-parrot and Elegant Sunbird are easy, as are Blue-backed Parrot, Blue-tailed Imperial Pigeon, Hooded Pitta, Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher, Pied Cuckoo-shrike and Black-fronted White-eye.

Birdwatching in Sangihe Island (Sulawesi)

Sangihe Island
Sangihe is the largest of a group of 77 islands (47 inhabited) strewn between North Sulawesi and the Philippines. Sangihe is almost totally covered in mixed plantations but the island’s four endemic species, Red-and-Blue Lory, Sangihe Hanging-parrot, Elegant Sunbird and Caerulean Paradise-flycatcher, can be found in forest remnants surviving on two of the island’s volcanoes, the active Mt Awu in the north and Tamako in the south-west.

Caerulean Paradise Flycatcher
www.biologicaldiversity.org

The paradise-flycatcher was though to be extinct until a british expedition made a brief sighting of one on Mt Awu in 1995.

Getting there
Passenger ferries leave the harbour every other evening at 6.00 pm. Check on the blackboard at the harbour for sailing dates. Fare is $5 for the 12-hr journey; cabins can be rented from the crew for $7. bemos meet the ferry to transport you to the other end of town, where accommodation is concentrated.

Mount Awu
From the terminal take the bus to Talawid Atas (2-3 hrs, IDR 15,000). Get off at the school, walk right along the road and pass a junction after 50 m. after a further 50 m the trail upwards through plantations for 1 hr. it climbs a ridge with forest in the valley on either side and plantations along the ridge top. This trail continues for 3-4 hrs but does not enter forest; however, you can see Sangihe Hanging-parrot and Red-and-Blue Lory flying overhead and Elegant Sunbird in mixed flocks in the plantation trees. This is where the 1995 sighting of Caerulean paradise-flycatcher was made.

source: Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park

Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park
The Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park, formerly Dumoga Bone, is one of the two biggest terrestrial national parks of Sulawesi encompassing 300,000 ha of rainforest from 50-2,000 m above sea level. Almost all of Sulawesi’s 75 endemic species occur in the park.

Endemic birds that are common and conspicuous in the park include: Sulawesi Serpen-eagle, Spot-tailed Goshawk, Isabelline Waterhen, Sulawesi Black Pigeon, Golden-mantled Raquet-tail, Fiery-billed Malkoha, Great-billed Kingfisher, Red-knobbed Hornbill, Ashy Woodpecker, Pied Cockoo-shrike, Sulawesi Babbler, Finch-biled and White-necked Mynas, Yellow-sided and grey-sided Flowerpeckers. Others are more locally distributed but still relatively easy to observe, like Maleo and Purple-winged Roller.

Other Wildlife
Crested Black Macaque, Wild Bear and spectral Tarsier can be found around the guest-house in Duloduo. Try the veranda of the guest house in the evening with the flights on for bats and huge beetles and butterflies,. In the forest keep an eye out for bear and Dwarf Cuscus.

Getting there
The village of Duloduo, some 2 km from the park headquarters can be reached directly by bus from the Malalayang bus station in southwest manado. If requested the bus might stop at Koasinggolan dam, just behind Duloduo, from which it is less then 1 km to the offices (cross the small dam left and continue on this road). The Manado-Dulodou trip takes about 6 to 7 hours and costs about IDR 25,000.

Another entrance of the park with a good access to the forest is Toraut. Small buses (oplets) go from Duloduo to Toraut (12 km; IDR 5,000).

Accommodation/dining
The headquarters in Dulodou include a guest-house with two rooms for two people each. Food is available on request. One night including three meals costs about IDR 90,000. Though more remote, the Toraut area offers sleeping facilities for quite large numbers.

General Information
Visitors have to register at the Dulodou or Toraut offices. A small fee has to be paid for insurances each day (about IDR 5,000).

Entering the forest is allowed only with a park guide, none of whom speak any English. The guide fee is around IDR 50,000 a day. A good birding trip from Dulodou is the track to the Matayangan village and Maleo nesting ground. This trip starts from the guest-house in Dulodou and takes about 8 hours, including transportation to Dulodoou from Matayangan village.

A nice trip in the Dumoga valley is a visit to the Maleo nesting ground of Tambun. Arrange transportation and guide the day before, leave early to the village of Imandi (“market with bats”) and go inland to Mokintop village, total costs between IDR 50,000-80,000). Another possibility is leaving the night before and staying in the small guest-house of Imandi (50 m next to the post office).

Less than two km before Mokintop is the Tambun Maleo nesting ground. Maleos are around between October and May. Be there early to see the birds. In Mokintop village Purple-winged Roller are common.
The road from Imandi to Mokinto gives good opportunities for rails, herons and raptors, while the Dumoga valley in the west, which is not part of the park, is rich in herons, rails and waders.

Rainfall is generally evenly distributed throughout the year with relative wet periods from November to January and from March to May and dry spells from June to Octaober and in February, although local patterns of rainfall show great differences.

An excellent, full-colour guidebook with some superb photographs, north Sulawesi; a Natural History Guide, by Dr Margaret Kinnaird, is available from the wallacea Development Institute.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Tangkoko/Dua Saudara Nature Reserve

Tangkoko/Dua saudara Nature Reserve

Three forested volcanoes form the core of this 8,800 ha reserve on the northernmost tip of Sulawesi. An open forest understorey makes for excellent viewing conditions at all levels in the canopy and on the ground, and an abundance of figs and other fruit trees results in high densities of fruit-eating birds and mammals. It is possible to bird coral flats, lowland forests and cloud forest on volcanic summits all in a day, but you will get more out of the trip if you allow at least 2 days.

Key species

Forty-seven Sulawesi endemics including Red-billed and Sulawesi Hanging-parrots, Yellow-breasted and Golden-matled Racquet-tails, Blue-backed Parrot and Yellow-and-green Lorikeet. Yellow-billed Malkoha, Hair-crested Drongo, Spot-tailed Goshawk, Red-knobbed and Tarictic Hornbills. If you travel by sea watch out for Lesser Frigatebird, Brown and Red-footed Boobies, Sooty Tern and several species of swallow.

Other Wildlife
Spectral Tarsier, a tiny,, nocturnal primate; Bear Cuscus, a pouched mammal related to the kangaroo, that moves slowly through the canopy aided by a prehensile tail; black macaques.

Getting there
Reach Tangkoko by land or sea from Manado
Buses depart hourly from Paal II bus terminal for Bitung and Girian (IDR 5,000). At Girian change to mikrolet or open-backed jeep (IDR 5,000) to the village of Batuputih on the western boundary of the reserve.

Cars may be chartered from hotels, dive resorts or travel agencies, Barracuda Dive Resort in Molas provides a car and driver for $45 for a 1-way drop; more if you want the car to wait overnight. The travel agents on Jl Sam Ratulangi do packages to Tangkoko for about $50 a day.

By sea a more scenic way to visit Tangkoko/Dua Saudara is by boat but this is only advisable from June to September when seas are calm. Boats can be chartered from Murex and Barracuda dive resorts ($60 or more) or from Bitung Port ($38 but it is best to negotiate).

Accommodation/dining
There are few losmen/homestay in the village of Batuputih. All homestays charge $8-10 a night, including 3 spicy meals.

General information
The best time to visit is May-October, it is hottest and most crowded in July and August. Plan on spending at least 2 full days in the reserve; one to climb to the top of Mt Tangkoko and 1 to explore the lowland forest and forest edges.

No permit is required, but you must report to PHPA at the reserve entrance. The entrance fee costs IDR 2,000 a day, and you have to hire one guide ($5-8 per day) per group of 4 visitors (tips appreciated).
There are many interesting walks in the Nature Reserve. These include a 6-km trail from the beach to the cloud forest on the rim of Tangkoko volcano. The trail climbs 1,100 m through all major habitats and provides opportunities to glimpse montane birds such as Fiery-browed Myna, Sulawesi Woodpecker, Sulawesi Drongo and Scaly-breasted Kingfisher. Pack a lunch and spend a full day on this trail.

There is a 4-km loop trail on gentle slopes that passes through secondary and primary forest. Along this trail are fruiting strangle figs that attract mynas, fruit doves and other fruit eating birds. The trail passes through several well known Red-knobbed Hornbill nest areas and kingfisher and chestnut-backed Thrush territories.

A 12-km trail parallels the beach although only the first 4 km are well maintained. The trail passes through grasslands, a good area for bee-eaters, White-shouldered Trillers and coucals; beach forest, where one frequently spots Slender-billed Cuckoo-dove, Sulawesi Black Pigeon and several kingfisher species; and secondary and primary forest, where White-bellied sea-eagles and Sulawesi Hawk-eagles are known to nest.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Lore Lindu National Park

Lore Lindu National Park
The 200,000 ha Lore Lindu National Park in the north of central Sulawesi is one of Asia’s premier birding destinations-it is possible to see 80% of sulawesi’s 96 endemic bird species in a visit of 4-5 days. The park covers the Lindu, Besoa, Bada and Napu valleys-famous for their ancient megaliths-and the mountain ridges in between. Birders tend to head for the higher ground where most of the endemics are found, and the most popular base is Kamarora at the northern edge of the park on the road to the Napu Velley. For those wishing to really get to know the park, an extensive system of trails links the different valleys, although bird densities seem lower in the southern parts of the park.

Key species
Many of Sulawesi’s endemics can be seen at Tangkoko and dumoga Bone; what sets Lore Lindu apart is the easy access to high altitude forests which have a distinct set of endemics. Birds like: Malia, Sulphur-bellied, Yellow-flanked and Maroon-backed Whistlers, White-eyed Myza, Streak-headed Darkeye and Fiery-browed Myna.

Other wildlife
Both species of Sulawesi’s endemic dwarf buffalo, or anoa. Black Macaques and babirusa.

Getting there
Access to Lore Lindu is via Palu, the provincial capital of Central Sulawesi. You can get to the park by bus (from the main bus station-Masomba market terminal), or yoou can organize a 4-wheel drive vehicle and driver from one of the tourist agents in Palu.

Both have their disadvantages. If you go by bus, do not be surprised if the journey takes most of a day, as this road is probably the worst in the southern hemisphere. A 4WD vehicle, on the other hand, can be expensive. A good compromise is to hire transport for a day to take you to the pass at the Anaso turn-off (as high as a vehicle can go) and, after the day’s birding, ask the driver to drop you at Kamarora on the way back. If you choose this option, start early from Palu, or you will get to the top too late for the early birds. Allow at least 4 hrs for this trip.

General Information
If trekking between the areas below, a guide is advised as trails are poorly way-marked. Horses or porters can be hired to carry packs. There are PHPA posts in most villages, the staff of which are welcoming to guests provided that you have park entry permits from the SKSDA office in Palu.

To get to the Napu Valley, take the direct public bus from Palu and stay at the losmen with restaurant; for the Bada valley (Gintu), there is a MAF flight from Poso, then take a jeep to the homestays. Tentena (Poso) is a 2-day walk from Gimpu. To go to Saluki, take the direct bus from Palu, and walk one hour to the Maleo watchtowers. Toro is connected to Palu by a daily direct bus and you can stay at the PHPA post there. The Lindu Valley is accessible via public bus from Palu to Sidaunta; (where you can stay at the homestay at the PHPA post) then continue by horse or foot. Kamarora is the place to base yourself when visiting the park.

Accommodation/dining
The very basic PHPA bungalows in Kamarora can accommodate up to 15 people; book in advance at PHPA Palu office, Jl Parman 9, no restaurant; bring your own food from Palu and make arrangements with the ranger’s wife to cook it.

General Information
It is essential to get a permit for the park. Obtain it from the BKSDA office at JL Mohammed Yamin (road known also as “jalur dua”) before leaving Palu. Costs IDR 5,000.

Birdwatching in Lake Tempe (Sulawesi)

Lake Tempe

This shallow complex of lakes, with its intensive fishing industry, is a haven for large numbers of many waterbird species, especially in the man-made structures of floating vegetation (bungka) unique to this area. Halfway between the provincial capital of Ujung Pandang and crowd-pulling Tana Toraja, Tempe lies in the Buginese heartland and at the centre of the Sulawesi silk-weaving industry. While it is a must for the keen birder, everyone will find a half-day trip to the lakes delightful, as seeing birds is nowhere easier.

Key species

Seasonally (usually Nov-Jan) up to 5,000+ Glossy Ibis, 10,000+ Garganey and tens of thousands of reed-warblers, Little Grebe, Little Pied Cormorant, Darter, Purple and Common Moorhens, Comb-crested Jacana, Yellow, Cinnamon and Black Bitterns, Black crowned and Nankeen Night-herons, and Purple Heron, occasionally Milky Stork and Osprey.

Other Wildlife

Soa-soa, or sail-fin Lizard, several species of Monitor Lizard, and Sulawesi’s only aquatic tortoise, Asian Box Turtle.

Getting there

By car the 220-km journey from Ujung Pandang to Sengkang takes about 4 hrs, there are two major routes. The quicker is the coastal road which snakes along a narrow coastal plain to Pare-pare (2.5 hrs), from where you follow the major road to Tana Toraja that runs north of the lakes. After about an hour you reach a major junction; here you turn south to Sengkang (another 30 min).

A slower but more interesting alternative is via Camba. From Ujung Pandang follow the coastal road north to Maros (35 km), then head due east towards the wonderful karst landscape of Bantimurung (waterfalls and butterflies). At Bantimurung follow the road in the direction of Camba-it winds very slowly up the limestone escarpment, through a nature park (Camba) and offers to Soppeng (or Watansoppeng) is not as busy as the coastal road, taking about 2.5 hours; Soppeng-Sengkang is another 30 min.

By bus alternatively, take a public; bus to Pare-pare (2-3 hrs) and from there a bus to Sengkang (another 1.5 haours). About $2,50.

Once in Sengkang it is easy to rent an outbond-powered Buginese longboat plus crew of two. Negotiate a price (usually per hr or half day, depending on what you want) beforehand- a half day will cost about $17-25, depending on your bargaining skills and the mood of your boatman. Best place to rent a boat is along the Walanae river, north of downtown Sengkang.

General information

Best time to visit is Oct-Jan, when water levels are low. The fishing season peaks then, and it coincides with the arrival of migratory waterbirds such as Glossy Ibis and Garganey. As usual, early morning and late afternoon are best to trips on the lakes, not only because of the birds but because the heat of the sun can be a torment while sitting in a boat (none has a roof). Bring lots of water, sun cream and an umbrella (for sun and rain). Depending on what you want to see, you can spend 2-3 hrs on a quick look at the best spots, or 2-3 days if you want to tour all there lakes and see wildlife along the interconnecting streams. Guides are not necessary if water levels are high, but if they are low you will not find the channels and it is generally wise to travel with a boatman. It is also useful that local boatman know the rules regarding fishing nets and how to avoid snagging them. Be aware that the bungka are strictly off limits.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Sulawesi Peninsula

Birdwatching in Sulawesi

Ujung Pandang

Ujung Pandang is the capital and administrative centre of the province of south Sulawesi. It is the main point of entry for the south of the island and the base for a trip to Lake Tempe and the very popular Tana Toraja area. Ujung Pandang’s hasanuddin (international) airport, the gateway to eastern Indonesia, is well connected to the rest of the archipelago.

Getting there

By air the airport is 25 km north of town on the road to Maros, 30 min’s drive. The half hour taxi ride into town costs $6 or $8 AC, or you can walk 500 m to the main road and catch a bemo for $1 including luggage.

By sea five pelni ships call at Ujung pandang on fixed schedules of 14 days.

By bus there is a daily bus service to and from all the major towns in South Sulawesi, however getting out of Ujung Pandang can be a hassle. Coaches and minibuses to other towns leave from terminal Pasar Daya at km 15. allow at least a half hor for the journey. First take a bemo (IDR 1,000) or becak (IDR 2,000-IDR 4,000) to Sentral (the central bemo terminus) and from there a second bemo to Panaikan. From here, buses leave regularly throughout the day up to 7 pm.

Accommodation/Dining

Ujung Pandang is expensive by Indonesian standars. At the lower end of the scale there are many cheap penginapan around the part area, but these are not recommended. Most of the larger hotels add 21% service and tax; smaller ones may add 10%.

The main attraction of eating out in Ujung Pandang is the seafood: huge shrimps and lobsters, dark-skinned fish with delicate white flesh, and giant, jucy crabs. There is an enormous range of restaurants as wel as several hundred metres of warung along the seafront.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Tanjung Puting Reserve

Tanjung Putting Reserve

Tanjung Putting reserve in Central Kalimantan province covers 3,040 sq km of low-lying terrain characterized by blackwater rivers that flow into the Java Sea. The river mouths are bordered with nipa palm and mangrove swamps. In the remote centre of the reserve are “bird lakes”, where thousands of herons and cormorants nest. There are seasonally in undated peat swamp forests, and heath forest on the drier ground. Most visitors come to see the orphaned Orang-utans at Camp Leakey, where there is a 200-m boardwalk and an extensive trail system. Over 220 species of bird have been recorded, including several species of hornbill and pheasant. The park is best explored by boat from the coastal town of Kumai.

Key species

Excellent range of rainforest and wetland species including; Storm’s Stork, Blyth’s Hawk-eagle, Leuser and grey-headed Fish-eagles, Bulwer’s Pheasant, Bay Owl, 7 species of hornbill, 10 species of woodpecker, Blue-headed Pitta, Black-and-white Bulbul and Rufous-tailed Shama.

Other wildlife

Forty species of mammal including Western Tarsier, Proboscis Monkey, Agile Gibbon and Clouded Leopard.

Getting there

All inclusive tours can be organized through Indonesia Expeditions, Jakarta. A visit to the park starts at Pangkalanbun. There are daily flights from Jakarta, Pontianak, and Banjarmasin. Taxis can be chartered from the airport to the coastal town of Kumai ($20). Alternatively, take a colt from the market in nearby Sungai Arot to Kumai (IDR 5,000, 30 min). Pelni ships from Semarang and Surabaya call at Kumai every 2 weeks.

General information

A surat jalan for the park is required from the police office in Pangkalanbun (you will need a photocopy of the photo-page of your passport and visa stamp). This must be handed to the PHPA office on Jl Idris (the coast road) in Kumai to get a park entrance permit. The PHPA office is open 8.00 am to 2.00 pm except Friday (8.00-11.00 am) and Saturday (8.00-12.00 am). Closed Sunday. The paperwork sometimes takes an hour. Local hotels will arrange the permit for a nominal charge. Entrance fee to the park is IDR 2,500 and there is a $1-2 boat toll.

The PHPA office can arrange excursions; PHPA guide rate is IDR 25,000 per day. There are also numerous travel agents in Kumai.

Rivers provide the major travel routes into the park. The most economical means is to take the daily public water taxi from Kumai upstream to Aspai (IDR 15,000). Most visitors charter a longboat or kelotok. Hire charges are $35-40 per day.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Kutai National Park

Kalimantan

Samarinda, the capital of East Kalimantan, is the main point of embarkation for boats up the Mahakam river and the starting point for trips to Kutai National Park. Samarinda is about 115 km north of Balikpapan, and 60 km from the sea upriver on the Mahakam.

Kutai National Park

One of Indonesia’s first and largest reserves, Kutai offers excellent birding opportunities for twitchers, adventurers and the leisure tourist alike. More than 236 bird species have been recorded for the park.

Key species

Rufous-bellied Eagle, Wallace’s Hawk-eagle, Crested Partridge, Crested Fireback, Great Argus, Large Green Pigeon, Large Frogmouth, seven species of Horbill (notably Wrinkled), blue-headed Pitta, Garnet Pitta, Bornean Wren-babbler, Bornean Bristlehead, Dusky Munia.

Other wildlife

Proboscis Monkeys, Barking and Sambar Deer, Mouse-deer, Banteng, Clouded Leopard, near Mentoko, you might see wild Orang-utan, gibbons and leaf monkeys.

Getting there

Teluk Kaba from Samarinda take a taxi/kijang (2-2.5 hours, $2.50) or bus (3 hrs, $2) to Bontang. Hire a boat from Bontang (Tanjung Limau Harbour) to Teluk Kaba (1.5-2 hrs, $15).

Mentoko from Samarinda; take a bus all the way to Sangatta (4 hrs, $10). From Bontang; drive or take a bus north direct to Sangatta (about 2 hrs). from Teluk Kaba; walk 2-3 km back to the main road and take a bus to Sangatta (about 1 hr if the road is good). At sangatta; a ketinting motor boat can be chartered upriver to Mentoko (2.5 hrs, $350. a rather more expensive way to travel is to take a boat all the way from Tanjung Limau to mentoko (10 hrs for $50).

General information

The driest period is April to October. Before entering the park, visitors should report to the National Park offices (Kantor Taman Nasional Kutai, Jl Mulawarman 236, Tromolpos 1, Bontang 75283, Kalimantan Timur). The most accessible sites are Teluk Kaba and Mentoko, but hiking and camping are esy as the terrain is relatively flat. There is a 30-km jungle trail from Pinang (near Sangatta village) to mentoko, and other trails lead from Teluk Kaba. Leeches are abundant at Mentoko during the rainy months; antileech socks are most effective, and better than repellents.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in The Southern Circuit (Sumatra)

The southern Circuit

A daily ferry to Kampung leaves the quay at Kota Agung between 10.00 and 12.00 am. The crossing takes 4-6 hrs, depending how loaded the boat is. Fare IDR 15,000. The transfer from the ferry to shore is by canoe through exhilarating surf. Make sure your equipment is in waterproof bags!

Buy you supplies in Kota Agung. There is a small PHPA post in Tampang, and visitors stay the night with Pak Salamat next door ($ 3,5/IDR 30,000 per peson). PHPA will arrange porters if you need them ($5/IDR 50,000 a day per person). Pak Hasim knows the trails well. From Tampang it is a 6-hr birding walk (2-hr straight trek) to a good shelter at Duku Banyak. 

The forest here is excellent and it would be worth staying two nights. From Duku Banyak it is a 4-hr trek (but make a day of it) to the coast at Belimbing, site of a WW2 field and a light-house. An ecotourism resort is being developed here by PT Nusantara (Rudy Schultz), next to the PHPA post. They are said to be welcoming to trekkers and you can stay here, in the PHPA post or camp. During bird migration months, especially, this area would be worth a couple of days.

A recommended side trip from Belimbing is the 3-hr trek north to the swiftlet caves at Way Paya. The trail follows the coast for 2 hrs before heading inland into the hills. It passes through excellent forest.

PT Nusantara has constructed a track along the south coast between Belimbing and Tampang. It passes through a mosaic of savannah and forest, and the birding is excellent. Take two days and camp at Lake Minjukut, reached after 5-6 hrs’ walking. The next day is another 4-5 hr walk to Tambang Mas on the edge of the park. From here you can hire a boat for $15/IDR 150,000 to take you round to Tambang, find an ojek or walk the last 12 km back to Tampang.

Sukaraja

This is an area of hilly forest (still below 500 m) in the centre of the park. The birding is excellent. The base is the PHPA’s Pos Sukaraja, close to the Kota Agung-Benkunat road, which bisects the park. The national park office can arrange a jeep to take you up here for $25-30. the turning to the Sukaraja post is on the right, just after you pass the national park boundary sign. It is a 20-min walk from the road through coffee plantatins. Give at least IDR 25,000 for staying at the post. The good forest starts 30 min to the west.

Birdwatching in Bukit Barisan National Park

Bukit Barisan National Park

This 356,800-ha park covers the southern tip of the Barisan range and just out as a spur into the Sunda Strait. It could act as a funned for migratory passerines and raptors between August and October but this has never been checked out; the mosaic of scrub, forest and grassland around Bimbing looks particularly promising.

The whole park is below 700 m, making it an excellent place to see lowland forest specialities, and it boasts spectacular coastal scenery. The best birding excursion is the 4-day circular trek from Tambung across the southern tip to Belimbing, returning along a new track, which follows the coast. There is an alternative return route from Belimbing via the caves at Way Paya, which could be good.

In the northern part of the park there is a trail that leads into excellent forest and across the peninsula from the PHPA post at Sukaraja.

Key species

Beach Thick-knee, Great Argus, Pink-necked Green Pigeon, Pied and green Imperial Pigeons, Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot, Raffles Malkoha, Blue-banded Kingfisher, Rhinoceros Hornbill, Olive-backed Woodpecker, Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Rail Babblers, Purple-naped Sunbird, Black Magpie.

Getting there

The town to head for is Kota Agung. There are daily buses from Bandar Lampung; the journey time is approximately 4 hrs and the fare IDR 7,500. if you fly to Bandar Lampung, taxis at the airport will drive you to Kota Agung for $40-45.

General Information

The national Park office is at Jl Raya Terbaya, this is 1.5 km before downtown Kota Agung on the main road from Lampung. Park entrance fee is IDR 7,500. You are obliged to take a park guide to enter the park ($10/IDR 90,000 per day)

source: Birding Indonesia. periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Way Kambas National Park (Sumatra)

Bandar Lampung

Bandar Lampung (often called Tanjung Karang) is the capital of Lampung Province. It is easily accessible from Jakarta, making excarsions to Way Kambas and Bukit Barisan National Park quite feasible for visitors to West Java.

Way Kambas National Park

Way Kambas, on the east coast of Sumatra’s Lampung Province, is one of Indonesia’s best known wildlife reserves. Tigers still roam the reserve, as do large herds of elephant. For the bird-watcher, the way Kanan area is much preferred to the more generally visited Way Kambas, with its elephant training centre. The trails and canoe trips offer the opportunity to see a wide range of lowland forest birds and the possibility of seeing great rarities such as White-winged Duck and Storm’s Stork.

Key species

White-winged Duck, Storm’s Stork, Large, Gould’s and Sunda Frogmouths, Crested Fireback, Great Argus, Grey-headed Fish-eagle, Checker-throated Yellownape.

Other wildlife

Siamang, Agile Gibbon, Banded and Silvered Leaf Monkeys, Elephant. Tiger and Tapir are present but very rarely seen.

Getting there

By car Way Kambas is 7-8 hrs by car and ferry from Jakarta. The turning east for way Kambas off the Trans-Sumatran highway is signposted at Panjang, 4 km south of Bandar Lampung and 85 km north of Bakauheni harbour. Follow the road to Way Jepara and on to Rajabasalama (92 km). in Rajabasalama turn right at the stone elephant; the park entrance is reached after 7 km and Way Kanan after a further 13 km. or take the Kota Bumi road north out of Bandar Lampung and follow the elephant signs.

By bus direct buses, signed to Way Jepara, leave from Rajabasa bus station in Bandar Lampung; the last bus departs at 3 pm, but you should depart by lunchtime as the ojek drivers will not enter the park after dusk. The journey takes 3 hrs and costs $1.50. get off at the stone elephant at Rajabasalama and hire an ojek for the 20-km journey to Way Kanan, $4.50

From Bandar Lampung airport, which is the northern Rajabasalama road, simply step out and flag down a Way Jepara bus. Alternatively you can take a taxi direct to Way Kanan ($25.00)

Accommodatin/dining

There is a 6-room guest house at Way Kanan. Quite basic, but clean sheets, $12.50D. you need to bring your own food but you can use the rangers’ kitchen.

General information

The dry season, May-Nov, is the best time to visit the wildlife reserve. To obtain a permit, pay $2 at the park entrance, or get it in advance from PHPA in Bandar Lampung. A rangers’ cooperative organizes the Way Kanan facilities. See map and main article for details of trails. Canoes can be hired for $12.50/day, full days only, and speedboat for $80/day.

taken from Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore

Birdwatching in Muaro Sako (Sumatra)

Muaro Sako

If you have time to spare after visiting Mt Kerinci, a day at Muaro Sako could be very rewarding. The bird-watching is easy-you can see a wide range of birds, including half a dozen endemics, just by walking or driving along the scenic main road through the forest.

Key species

Argus Pheasant, Helmeted Hornbill, Spot-necked and Cream-vented Bulbuls, Blue-masked Leafbird, Sumatra Drongo, Sumatra Treepie and Lesser Forktail.

Getting there

Muaro sako is village on the road between Sungai Penuh and Tapan. Buses leave Sungai Penuh for Tapan at 9.00 am and 5.00 pm. The 3-hr journey costs IDR 6,000.

Accommodation/dining

Facilities in Muaro Sako are very basic. ask at the restaurant for a room (IDR 15,000/night). The food does not come highly recommended. If you have your own transport, a long day-trip out of Sungai Penuh might be preferable.

General Information

For the best birding, simply walk back along the main road towards Sungai Penuh. The road winds through excellent forest, affording views of a wide range of species. Better still, leave the village early and hitch back up to the two warung about an hour out of Muaro Sako on the Sungai Penuh road. Then walk back down to the village (10-12 hrs).

Birdwatching in Lake Belibis (Sumatra)

Lake Belibis

On the western flank of Mt Kerinci, “duck lake” sounds promising. The 3-ha lake, with its beautiful views of Kerinci, is charming, but the forest along the 2-km, leech-infested trail from forest along the 2-km, leech-ifested trail from the edge of the plantation was badly damaged by illegal logging in the 1980s and the birding is relatively poor. You will need a guide to find the start of the trail, which is a 1 hr 50-min (2-hr) walk from Kerisik Tua.

Ladeh Payang

Not yet on the birding map, this 100-ha swamp to the west of Mt Kerinci is said to be one of the best areas in the park to see tigers. The trail starts at Kebun Baru, a 18-km road and drivable track from Kerisik Tua. It is said to be a 1.5-hr walk through cultivation to the edge of the forest and then 5.5 hrs through the forest to the swamp, where you can camp by a 3-storey watchtower. Lake Sakti is a further 2 hrs from the edge of the swamp.

source Birding Indonesia. Periplus Publishing. Singapore